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The Epic Trip to Antarctica with My Brother -- That Almost Wasn't

1/27/2022

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I took my brother Bart with me on a cruise to Antarctica with Atlas Ocean Voyages. Before the cruise, we had some time in Ushuaia -- a little more time than expected.
By John Roberts 
It's just past midnight, and I'm on a shuttle bus traveling on a winding road in Argentina, not really sure what's next for me. 
It's dark out, save for a few lights visible around the harbor. Turns out, I'm stranded at the end of the world.
 

OK, so it sounds a little dramatic. But it kind of feels like it is.  
I know from too many experiences that when it comes to travel, you will be in a better state of mind if you stick to three simple pillars. 
Hope for the best. 
Plan for the worst. 
Be delighted if it all meets somewhere in the middle. 
This is even more important to keep in mind as we travel during the time of a pandemic. 
Such was the case for my much-anticipated expedition to Antarctica. 
Here's a little story about the start of my trip. I was joined by my younger brother Bart, and I'll detail later in this post all the reasons why it was fantastic to share this epic adventure with him. 
However, our cruise to the White Continent with Atlas Ocean Voyages faced a real threat of being over before it even started when three cases of COVID were recorded on the sailing just ahead of mine.
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The 196-passenger World Navigator, seen during our cruise in Antarctica, is the first expedition ship for Atlas Ocean Voyages. The line plans to launch four more by 2023.
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Exploring Ushuaia during our pre-cruise time. This was Bart's first time in South America.
Atlas Ocean Voyages is a new cruise line, started in 2021 with its first luxe expedition ship World Navigator. The cruise line has plans to launch four more ships by 2024. 
For Atlas' inaugural Antarctica season, the line brought passengers to Ushuaia, Argentina, to meet World Navigator via a private charter flight originating in Orlando. Bart and I joined the other cruisers in our group at the airport to check in and take our pre-trip COVID tests.  
This was followed by a nice reception with snacks, drinks and live music performances. The energy was high as we mingled and met others excited to go on an adventure to Antarctica. This would be my second time there and Bart's first. I was really pumped to be going with him, and I kept telling Bart how much fun we were sure to have. 
All was proceeding pretty smoothly so far. We boarded the plane in the evening, settled in our seats, enjoyed a couple celebratory beers and a meal onboard before trying to get a little sleep.

Before I continue our story, I want to recommend an excellent Packing List for a Cruise to Antarctica created by our friends at Sometimes Sailing.
  
We woke up in the early morning as we touched down in Ushuaia, known as the southernmost city in the world.  
With anticipation building and a few hours of touring the city ahead of us, we expected to be on the ship by late afternoon. We knew that the logistics are a little tricky to get the prior cruise passengers off and the ship ready for us, so a city tour of Ushuaia and a lunch break makes sense. However, 16 hours later, things didn't look good.

We are heading to a hotel, a 30-minute bus ride from the port.  
I am sure that our trip is off.
We'll get an update in the morning, an Atlas Ocean Voyages' representative says. 
Bart is still hopeful.
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How did we get here? 
We arrived to Ushuaia with about 85 passengers. World Navigator can hold up to 196 cruisers but is sailing at a reduced capacity like almost every other ship in the world during the pandemic. 
Three buses are used to take our group of visitors around the city during the morning, exploring scenic points along the Beagle Channel and stopping at a restaurant for a hearty lunch. People are having a nice time getting to learn about each other, chatting about where they are from and discussing how they picked Atlas and their excitement about getting to Antarctica finally. It's a huge travel goal for most. 
After lunch and a couple more stops around the city, people are starting to wonder when we will be able to board the cruise ship. It's late afternoon when our buses arrive to the Ushuaia sign down by the port and we stop for the photo opportunity, thinking it's a fitting cap to our tour before we get on World Navigator. 
However, as the buses pull through the gate at the pier, our ship in view just a hundred yards away, I get the distinct feeling that plans are being shuffled on the fly. We are not boarding just yet. Instead, we are taking a dinner cruise in the channel, using a nearby restaurant catamaran. 
OK. Could be fun. It seems that the process of flipping the ship and getting it ready for us is taking a little longer than expected. I am used to these types of delays happening in the age of COVID, of course. 
Others are starting to wonder aloud what is going on, though, as we are not receiving clear communication about our schedule of events. We have a dinner and then enjoy a cruise on the channel, spotting a large colony of cormorants and visiting a large group of sea lions gathered on a promontory. 
Drinks are flowing and people are having a good time and mostly being patient as the wait drags on. Finally, we get word that there is no certain timeline for our embarkation. It turns out that some crew tested positive for COVID.  
The mood turns sour as we start to feel trapped on this catamaran, not knowing whether the trip will take place and what the next steps might be. Bart and I play cards with new friends and calmly wait for more info. Others are getting clearly agitated. Maybe all. The open bar for several hours probably isn't helping. 
Finally, we get word that we will be heading to hotels for the night to await further updates in the morning on the fate of our voyage. 

Bart and I head to our room at our resort. We open the door and find that the heater has been working overtime in here. We turn it off and crack open the windows to try to get some relief. It's got to be more than 90 degrees in here.  
"Of course, this is how this day ends," I say, as we lay down and try to get some sleep.
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This view of the Beagle Channel just outside of our hotel is incredible.
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We wake up on a Sunday. In the light of day, we're able to see that our hotel, Los Yamanas, is located in a stunning spot just steps from a beach on the Beagle Channel. Bart and I grab breakfast and learn that the early news about our cruise is not good. We're told that the cruise probably is off and arrangements will be made to get us home ASAP.  
We spend the day enjoying the resort and going for a hike along the shoreline. The day offers the most incredible weather in late spring down here at the very tip of South America. 
After lunch and session at the gym, we finally get a message. It's spectacular news: The cruise will happen! 
We are told to meet the transfer bus outside the hotel around 7 p.m. to head to the ship. Bart had remained upbeat and hopeful the whole time, while I was more inclined to think the trip was lost. 
I'm so glad his positive-thinking powers worked. The upbeat energy was back, as we checked in with our fellow cruisers in the Atlas Lounge on World Navigator, meeting the crew members and having a cursory tour of the ship. 
Well, the story is that the Argentinian authorities were eventually satisfied with the process to get off the crew who had tested positive and to effectively clean the ship, allowing us to sail and lose just one day.  
Atlas Ocean Voyages made it up to cruisers by refunding 10 percent from the cost of this trip plus offering a future cruise credit worth 50 percent of the fare paid for this voyage as well as free Internet during our cruise and $100 onboard credit for our sailing. Many of our fellow passengers told me that they considered this a fair deal, and the main thing they were happy with was being able to continue this journey. 
It turned out to be an incredible adventure. We lost just half a day, overall, because of calm sea conditions through the infamous Drake Passage. In retrospect, I was happy to be able to spend a day in Ushuaia relaxing and recovering after an exhausting day of travel the day before. It also gave me a chance to soak in the incredible scenery and enjoy an invigorating hike. 
I have a full recounting of this Antarctica cruise with Atlas Ocean Voyages on the new World Navigator available by checking out my video features (trip video and balcony stateroom tour below). Thanks for watching these, and please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel. 
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We're actually onboard the ship and sailing away from Ushuaia.
In the rest of this post, I'll highlight my favorite parts of this cruise and why it was special to share it with my brother. 
Precious Time Together  
Bart is my only sibling. He is two years younger and lives in Florida, while I live in Colorado. We don't get to see one another as often as I'd like, so this was an amazing chance to go on an epic trip together. I travel a lot and he hasn't been too many places outside of the United States, so it was also a thrill to see his joy of traveling to such an exotic destination.
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Awesome Active Adventures 
Our daily activities included rushing out to the balcony or outer decks each day to see what the views were like as we cruised through the Drake Passage and among the islands and channels around the Antarctic Peninsula.  
We would strap on our warm-weather gear and boots, hop into a Zodiac for another excursion, and it was all amazing.
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A Celebration 
The trip also allowed us to celebrate his recent retirement from decades as an educator. The crew on World Navigator helped me surprise Bart with a cake during one of our dinners.
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Lots of Late Nights and Laughs 
We savored bar time with beer flights and hanging with new friends in the lounges listening to music, watching the 11 p.m. sunsets and playing games. Plus, you can't beat the hot tub time as snow is falling all around us while our ship sails past beautiful mountains, glaciers and icebergs.
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Atlas Lounge bartender Roel made our night by prepping us a tasty flight of craft beers.
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Spa time! Yes, we made good use of these robes all week.
Penguins and Plunges! 
The wildlife is always a highlight of these trips to Antarctica. And the penguins are the stars of the show. We certainly got our fill, seeing gentoos, chinstraps and a few adelies. We also go to see numerous birds, such as albatrosses, petrels, skuas and shags. 
Another highlight: the Polar Plunge. We joined dozens of fellow cruisers who took an invigorating dip into the 29-degree waters of the Lemaire Channel.
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Prepped to plunge.
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Indeed, the trip had a rough start. But what else can we expect during these unusual times. Instead of focusing on what is going wrong, this trip has further reinforced my belief that we should cherish every moment and remain hopeful.  
As you can see here, the voyage turned into a truly special experience, almost everything we could have wanted out of a journey to Antarctica.  
And even if it had been short-circuited in Ushuaia, I still would have had a good story to tell and some memorable moments with my brother. 
 
Thanks for reading,

JR
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See you at the next adventure.
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5 Things You'll Love About Enchanted Princess

1/24/2022

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By Ryan McDaniel
Princess Cruises' newest ship, Enchanted Princess, joined the fleet in late 2021 as the latest in their Royal Class line.
This the first Princess ship featuring the cruise line's fully integrated MedallionClass service. This technology helps take your cruising experience to the next level.
I had a chance to sail on Enchanted Princess during one of the first voyages and was able to explore what this ship has to offer. A few features stood out as unique, impressive or otherwise not-to-be-missed.
Check out the five best things about Enchanted Princess.
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Good Spirits at Sea
This venue, located just off of the bustling Piazza on Deck 5, is more than your humble cruise ship bar. Two to three times a night you can enjoy a show as mixologists take you through crafting any number of signature cocktails. Good Spirits takes its concept from the TV show of the same name, which follows cocktail chef Matthew Biancaniello around the globe in search of drink creations uniquely connected to fascinating destinations.
Sip a Loch Ness Martini, a Sandia en Fuego, or a Bangkok Mule after learning the stories of their origins and seeing how they are made. Each specialty drink at Good Spirits at Sea is served on a coaster featuring the drink's recipe so you can snap a picture and recreate your favorites at home!
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Sabatini's Italian Trattoria and Crown Grill
These two specialty dining restaurants distinguish themselves far beyond all other dining options onboard Enchanted Princess in terms of both food quality and menu selections. These eateries have become Princess staples and favorites among cruisers.
Even as cover prices for specialty restaurants seem to keep climbing, the cost of these venues is still quite reasonable -- especially compared with what you might pay at a deluxe Italian restaurant or steakhouse on land.
Sabatini's Italian Trattoria offers a five-course Italian dinner, starting with a house appetizer and moving through an antipasto, soup/salad course, pasta course, main and dessert. Options vary from mushrooms to seafood to veal. The signature "Rocher" dessert is both an impressive sight and delicious.
Crown Grill is the quintessential steakhouse featuring juicy and delicious cuts of all kinds, as well as quality seafood and sumptuous sides. The twist is that steaks are served with specialty salts; Hawaiian Black Salt, Applewood Smoked Salt, and Himalayan Mountain Pink Salt. These add a new dimension and flavor to the experience. Crown Grill also features my favorite dessert on Enchanted Princess: The Triple Chocolate Treasure.
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The Enclave
This is Enchanted Princess' thermal spa located within the Lotus Spa on Deck 5 forward. You'll pay a fee to use this amenity, if relaxation during your cruise is your primary aim, it is certainly worth it. You can purchase either a day pass or a full-cruise pass for The Enclave.
The dominant feature of this venue is the thalassotherapy pool, essentially a large whirlpool. The pool is flanked on two sides by thermal loungers and on one side by experience showers (Rain Shower, Tropical Rain, Cold Mist and Siberian Shower). Just off the main room with the pool, showers and loungers, you'll find three thermal rooms -- the Hammam (a Turkish steam bath), the Caldarium (an herbal steam) and the Laconium (a dry sauna).
The Enclave is a serene environment, even with the jets running in the thalassotherapy pool. With warm ambient air and gentle music playing, it's a cozy place to spend an afternoon -- or even the majority of your cruise!
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So many hot tubs and pools!
The pool is always a hot spot for most cruise lovers, especially on sea days. On many ships, you have to battle the crowds for even a chance to be within sightline of the pool. And forget finding an open hot tub. On Enchanted Princess, it's a different story. There are four pools and nine hot tubs onboard -- and that doesn't even count the thalassotherapy pool in The Enclave or the hot tub in The Sanctuary.
The Sky Pool, the ship's main pool, is typically full by mid-morning on sea days, but you're not necessarily out of luck. Check all the way aft on Deck 16 at the Wake View Pool, a small infinity pool, or all the way forward on Deck 17 at the Retreat Pool, an adults-only pool area. As for hot tubs, you'll rarely have to ask, "May I join you?" to a group already enjoying the bubbles. This is because there are three hot tubs around the Sky Pool, four more one deck up overlooking the pool and another two overlooking the Retreat Pool.
The perfect way to end a day cruising is sitting in a hot tub at the Sky Pool in the evening watching a film on the big screen, as part of the ship's Movies Under the Stars program.

MedallionClass technology
Princess Cruises is proud of the MedallionClass technology, now fully integrated for your whole cruise process on Enchanted Princess. The innovative tech has been in the works for a long time, and the cruise line has good reason to be proud. The features of the program have great potential to truly enhance your cruise experience.
So what is MedallionClass?
Well, it's an integration of three things: 1) MedallionNet, Princess' onboard internet, 2) Medallions, quarter-sized discs that replace your traditional sea pass card and 3) the MedallionClass app, which pulls the other two features together.
With these, you use your Medallion and your app together to pay for drinks or specialty dining, access your stateroom (from yards away as you approach), play group games or order food and drinks from anywhere on the ship. The technology tracks where you are located on the ship to give servers your location, so they can deliver your order right to you.
So, if you're lounging at the Retreat Pool on Deck 17 and don't want to make the journey down to Deck 5 for your favorite drink from Good Spirits at Sea, just order it on the app and they'll deliver it to you!
You can also use the app to connect with and locate your travel companions, make reservations, place bets in the casino, watch movies and take part in all sorts of other onboard activities. The caveat is that, as of this writing, the integration can be a bit clunky and the adoption by crew on board is not 100 percent. But I believe that these issues will be smoothed out in time with new iterations of the app and broader usage across their entire fleet.

Enchanted Princess has a few more gems for you to check out beyond this top list. For example, Gigi's Pizzeria is definitely one of the best pizzas at sea, the gym on Enchanted Princess is everything fitness enthusiasts will need to get in their daily workouts, and gin lovers will gush over Take Five, the jazz club specializing in gin cocktails.

For even more that you can enjoy on Enchanted Princess, check out our special video features of this exciting new ship.

Video features for Enchanted Princess

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Five Affordable Beach Towns that You'll Fall in Love With

1/17/2022

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By John Roberts 
I long have had dreams of a special kind of retirement. For me, this means a more remote existence on a beach -- away from the chaos of urban.
You know, heading off to live somewhere affordable, with a relaxing vibe, great food and warm weather. I'd love to keep it simple, finding a way to enjoy every day immersing ourselves within the community -- with enough creature comforts and plenty of adventurous activities to keep us happy. 
In this spirit, International Living magazine has identified five beach towns where you can live for less than $26,000 a year and have and exceptional time living abroad, soaking up the sunshine and relaxing on luscious sandy beaches. Check out these little gems located in Europe, Latin America, and South America: 

Salinas, Ecuador 
The beach-resort town of Salinas is probably the country's best-known beach vacation spot. Living in Salinas, Ecuador, you can have all the necessary amenities: modern condominium buildings (which line much of Salinas’s miles-long beach), restaurants, coffee shops, and bars. 
The beach is large and clean, bordered by the blue, calm Pacific waters. The sun gleams off motor yachts and sailboats in the marina, and the curving shoreline stretches for miles into the distance, with scores of modern, tall buildings mixed with old-fashioned apartments and seaside restaurants. 
For folks looking for an upscale beach lifestyle at an affordable price, then Salinas might be the perfect destination. 
A monthly budget for a couple living in Salinas runs around $1,400 a month, or almost $17,000 a year.

Santa Marta, Colombia 
Located on Colombia's Caribbean Coast, Santa Marta is quickly and quietly becoming a sought-after destination. With an average daytime high of 90 degrees and an evening low of 75, the tropical climate is idyllic. The greater Santa Marta area features history, beautiful white-sand beaches, water sports opportunities, ecotourism, a nice variety of restaurants and a vibrant nightlife. 
Restaurants, bars, coffee shops and bakeries surround the plaza. From Thursday to Saturday night, the park draws people out to enjoy eclectic cuisine, watch street performers or purchase crafts from street vendors. 
A couple can live well in Santa Marta on a monthly budget from $1,190 to $1,790, or about $14,280 to $21,480 a year. 

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico 
Puerto Vallarta has been an expat haven for more than 70 years. During its early years, the city's main business was exporting agricultural products grown in the rich farmlands of the state of Jalisco and the surrounding area. Today, Puerto Vallarta has become one of Mexico's biggest tourist destinations. 
Puerto Vallarta has a vibrant culture that will stimulate your senses. The town is filled with smells and sounds of sizzling food as street vendors serve up spicy specialties. Feel the smooth texture of the multicolored bead arrangements sold by the Huichol people from the western Sierra Madres and see the 11 majestic sculptures from all across the world poised on a mile-and-a-half stretch along the malecon. The bronzed sculptures are set against the soft powder blue of the ocean.  
Here, a couple can enjoy life by the coast on a monthly budget of $2,049 -- or $24,588 a year. 

Lagos, Portugal 
Lagos is a popular coastal town in southern Portugal's Algarve region. Located on the Bensafrim River, Lagos features top beaches, such as Praia Dona Ana, and numerous opportunities for watersports. The town also offers a scenic marina and a host of restaurants and bars boasting an active nightlife. You Foodies will love the vast array of choices -- quintessential fast-food to gourmet cuisine – available along the "Marginal,” the name given to the road/walkway along the coastal area. There is ample shopping and even a few stores specializing in imported foods. 
The center of the marina area features a merry-go-round for the kids and cafes, bars and pubs. A diverse collection of eclectic shops mixes well with the obligatory beach fare. In short, it is a sweet combination of ordinary residential living and resort offerings. 
You can live nicely here on a monthly budget of $2,080 -- or $24,960 a year. 

Rocha, Uruguay 
If folks are torn between the choice of country life and beach living, then Rocha might be the happy compromise. This beautiful region in Uruguay is a mostly rural area with pristine beaches. 
Rocha is a department (similar to a state or province) that stretches more than 100 miles along Uruguay's Atlantic coast. It is marked by lush pastures dotted with palm trees, pine forests, lagoons and areas of green hills with granite outcroppings. Rocha's coastline of long sand beaches is punctuated with bays, dunes, rocky points and small towns. 
The most popular area for retirees in Rocha is in and around the coastal town of La Paloma. 
La Paloma's Centro is on the Cape of Santa Maria. The main street is lined with restaurants, a few hotels, low-rise condos, markets, a casino and many shops. At the end of the cape, you'll find a large bay, a lighthouse and a commercial boat harbor. On each side of the cape, there are residential beach neighborhoods. La Paloma is also located near small farms and private communities. 
A couple can live well here on a monthly budget of $2,165 -- or $25,980 a year. 
This article is provided in collaboration with International Living. The magazine also has compiled an extensive list of The World's Best Towns and Cities for a Low-Cost Retirement.

Thanks for reading and happy travels!
JR
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