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Exploring Brooklyn and Queens Away from the Crowds

5/26/2015

12 Comments

 
Brooklyn Heights Promenade
A stop for scenic views at the Brooklyn Heights Promenade.
By John Roberts 

As I began to wake up, stirring from an unusually deep, long slumber, I noticed that my legs felt a little sore. I run more than 10 miles a week and do squats and deadlifts, too, so it's not unusual for my legs to get a good workout. 

But this soreness the day after an outing around New York's Brooklyn and Queens was just a further indication of what I already knew: We put in quite a few miles during our guided walking tour with Pecora Verde. 

The Italy-based excursion company launched in August 2013 with the goal of offering excursions that give tourists a different type of experience. Guides are residents in the locales in which they are leading groups. Specific tours are offered for off-the-beaten-path areas and can follow a scripted itinerary designed to take you into areas to see how the residents truly live in your destination. But with Pecora Verde's #outofthecrowd philosophy, you can also help to design your trip, your way through the "Special Services" program. Pecora Verde offers overland tours and cruise excursions throughout Europe primarily. 

It offers three New York City tours as its only U.S.-based excursions so far. But Pecora Verde has plans in the works to expand its offerings. Maybe we should have slowed down a little for more rest during our tour of Brooklyn and Queens. By the end of the day, our guide, Kiara, had taken us on a 13-mile journey through two NYC boroughs that were new to us. 

That's a half marathon worth of walking. Kiara says she does this route or something similar most days during a busy summer tourist season in the Big Apple. That is impressive. The native of Italy has been in New York for three years and has worked to learn many out-of-the-way nooks and crannies of the city in a bid to offer a unique experience to visitors, many of whom come from Europe to tour with her. 

Mrs. In The Loop and I live in Central New Jersey and get to NYC quite often, but until this visit, it's always been to Manhattan. This tour showed us there is so much more to see in close proximity to the mass-tourism areas. 

Here is what we did during our day with Pecora Verde. 

We get off the train at Penn Station in Manhattan and meet Kiara, who leads us to the subway to start our tour. She explains what we are going to see, and we exchange a little bit of our personal background info with one another as we walk. The clouds overhead promise a bit of rain at some time, but we expect we might be able to get through most of the day unscathed. And it is warming up nicely. Our first stop is in Brooklyn. Just a 10-minute subway trip (or less), and it already feels like a different world. 

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Picture
The streets are relatively serene compared with Manhattan, and we spot people out jogging, pushing strollers, walking pooches and sipping coffees on brownstone stoops. Making our way down one tree-lined street, I can spot our first official stop. 

The glimmering tiles give it away. Artist Susan Gardner's home stands out among the crowd of reddish brick residences on either side of her home in Boerum Hill. Gardner has bedazzled her domicile in a fantastic array of mosaics. She said she has lived in the home for more than four decades and started decorating the exterior on 108 Wyckoff Street just after 9/11. It's a sight to behold, sitting in sharp contrast with the other homes on her block. 
Mosaic artist home of Susan Gardner at 108 Wyckoff Street in Brooklyn
The unique mosaic home of artist Susan Gardner in Brooklyn.
Mosaic artist home of Susan Gardner at 108 Wyckoff Street in Brooklyn
A few blocks away, and we and find another curiosity: the false brownstone townhouse (58 Joralemon Street) that is a facade for a ventilator unit along the subway line (the world's only Greek Revival subway ventilator). Peeking through a crack in the doors, I see a bit of the structure for the No. 4 and 5 trains that is well hidden right in the middle of the Brooklyn Heights neighborhood. 
The fake brownstone townhouse at 58 Joralemon Street in Brooklyn. It's really a ventilator for the subway system.
The fake brownstone townhouse at 58 Joralemon Street in Brooklyn. It's really a ventilator for the subway system.
Over to the Brooklyn Heights Promenade, which looks across the East River to Manhattan, and we discover another view of the iconic NYC skyline. What is particularly striking is that you can easily imagine the helpless and horrific feeling people had at this vantage point watching from their homes as the World Trade Center came under attack on 9/11. Now, the Freedom Tower rises in the skyline and a small, framed picture fastened on the railing of the promenade recalls the skyline as it looked when the Twin Towers still stood. 
The Brooklyn Heights Promenade is a popular spot for pictures, recreation and relaxing.
The Brooklyn Heights Promenade is a popular spot for pictures, recreation and relaxing.
The promenade is a wonderful space for sitting and enjoying the scenery or taking a jog. You can spot the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges and other spans in the distance. 

We loop back and check out Love Lane, a one-block stretch between Henry and Hicks Street in Brooklyn Heights. The path was an ideal place for Dutch residents to take romantic walks. A true Lover's Lane from a bygone era. 
Love Lane in Brooklyn Heights
Love Lane in Brooklyn Heights is lacking lovers on this Saturday morning.
This tour is proving to be quite interesting, and we're loving the different vibe from a more quiet side of New York that exists just a few subway stops from midtown Manhattan. A much-needed lunch stop for food, water and a bit of rest on comfy couches at Brooklyn Roasting Company in Dumbo gives me a chance to fire out some pictures to my social media accounts documenting our morning. 

About Dumbo? Well, it's a quaint neighborhood in Brooklyn. It's located Down Under the Manhattan Bridge. Wait that won't quite work, will it? It's Down Under the Manhattan Bridge, ummm, Overpass. Yeah, that's better. You can see the basic genesis of the name. 
Dumbo, the neighborhood Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass.
The neighborhood Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass.
The quiet and scenic spot is filled with shops and eateries near the large bridge. Onward to that bridge. Time arrives to cross over from Brooklyn to Chinatown in Manhattan. The 1.25-mile walk over the river via the Manhattan Bridge is on a sidewalk shared by bikers, and you get fine views of the river on one side and vehicles and trains using the span on the other. 
A view from the Manhattan Bridge.
A full range of views from the Manhattan Bridge.
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Once we finish our crossing, passing all manner of gritty views of housing projects and rooftop graffiti on the way, we lose our sense of peace and quietude. We squeeze through crowded sidewalks in Chinatown, skim past Little Italy and find another subway station for our journey to Queens. Overall, we take four subway trips during the day. 

In Queens, we venture through Long Island City and to the waterfront, which again provides fine vistas of the skyline. Queens is more of a blue-collar city, not nearly as attractive as Brooklyn, but with certain charms. We are here to check out the famed Pepsi sign. Disclaimer: We are a devout Coca-Cola family, but that doesn't prevent me from stopping for a few pictures. 
The Pepsi-Cola sign in Queens.
A photo-opp hot spot in Queens.
We spot the MoMa PS1 branch of the Museum of Modern Art as we make our way to CitiField and Flushing Meadows (another subway ride) to check out the home of the New York Mets and the nearby courts that host the U.S. Open tennis tournament each September. 
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We're tempted to stay for the Mets game that night, especially because they are playing the Brewers (the wife's fave team), but game time is about four hours away (even though fans are starting to trickle toward the stadium). 
The main tennis court at Flushing Meadows is adjacent to the train yard.
The main tennis court, with renovations in the works, at Flushing Meadows is adjacent to the train yard.
Walking toward the tennis courts and Flushing Meadows -- Corona Park, we take note that it was the site for the World's Fair in 1939/40 and 1964/65. The tennis facilities are quiet this time of year and undergoing projects to prepare for the U.S. Open, but the nearby park is buzzing with families, and the Unisphere structure sits in the middle of it all. 

The attraction is a metal globe that rises 140 feet into the air and is 120 feet in diameter. It's a relic from the 1964/65 World's Fair and stands as a sort of Queens landmark. The legs are getting a bit weary now, for sure. But I refuse to admit it, determined to keep the spring in my step. 
The Unisphere at Flushing Meadows -- Corona Park in Queens.
The Unisphere at Flushing Meadows -- Corona Park in Queens.
We have seen all that is in the itinerary for the day, and Kiara checks how we're doing. Did we get enough pictures? Yes. Need to stop for an ice cream? Want to? Yes. Need to? No. 

Our tour was over except for the subway ride back to Manhattan to catch out train at New York Penn Station for the journey home to New Jersey. Just in time, as I notice my ankles starting to get a little swollen from all the walking. One more glance at the pretty green trees and one last moment to savor the sounds of chirping birds before we leave Flushing Meadows, hop on the train and are transported back into the bubbling cauldron of humanity in Times Square.

Thanks for reading, 

JR 

Travel fit! Travel happy!
Brooklyn Bridge Park
You can't beat the views and activity at Brooklyn Bridge Park on a warm Saturday.
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The Skinny 

In addition to its numerous overland tours and cruise excursions around the world, Pecora Verde has just cracked into the U.S. market. It offers three tours in New York City and says it is planning to add its #outofthecrowd experiences in Miami, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Las Vegas and select parks around the U.S. 

The Brooklyn and Queens, Exploring New York's Hidden Treasures tour costs $90 per person (we were hosted by Pecora Verde for our tour). 

What's not included: Lunch, drinks, subway transfers (we paid $11 per person to get around on the subway with our Metro cards). 

The bottom line: This experience indeed gives you a different look and feel from crowded excursions on well-worn areas. You will walk a lot, so be prepared and wear comfortable shoes. The small-group nature means you can adjust your pace and schedule, which is a good thing. 

Check out the video of our walking tour with Pecora Verde.
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My Epic Snorkel Fail Helped Me Gain a New Perspective on Travel

5/15/2015

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Picture
PictureAfter a slow start, I've found myself -- in my snorkeling and traveling endeavors.
By John Roberts 

I could feel the panic beginning to set in. 

Maybe it was the rolling wave action. Maybe it was that I was staring down into the deepest clearest waters I ever had seen before. 

I'm sure it was actually a combination of both. That and me battling the tight, uncomfortable mask and big breathing tube jammed into my face. 

No, this first snorkeling experience was not living up to the excitement I had anticipated. 

This was about 18 years ago during an excursion on vacation in Key West. I was 30 years old. I have always been a decent athlete and very into physical activities, but I was out of my comfort zone on this one. If the sport had a ball and teammates and was played on dry land, I was outstanding.  

As my team sports days began to fade further in the rear-view mirror and my interest in more travel and adventure began to see the first embers, it was time to broaden my expertise in other types of sports and activities.  

My initial attempt at snorkeling was humiliating, however. There I was flopping around in the waters, trying to get a hold of my breathing and alternately fidgeting with my mask and gazing down into the unbelievable beautiful -- and at the same time imposing -- reef system. 

I quickly tired myself out (it might have been 10 minutes in), called it a day and backstroked my way to the boat past the crowd of happy snorkelers that included more than a few kids who were no more than 7 or 8 years old. 

"What the hell just happened?" I said to myself.  

I didn't think I would ever enjoy this sport, but now it is one of my favorite things. 

Most of my travels have been to warm-weather destinations, and we always check out what the snorkeling will be like and the best places to go. We even bought our own gear to travel with and have tried snorkeling in Alaska (it's fantastic!).

I often think back to that first attempt and wonder what is different now. 

My evolution into a halfway decent snorkeler represents in microcosm how I have learned and grown overall in my life's Second Act, as a post-30-year-old adventure-seeking traveler. 

I never really left the United States, except for forays across the border to Niagara Falls or Toronto, from my hometown region of Rochester, New York, until I was 30. I didn't even know what I didn't know. 

And what I did not know until then, as I lived my fairly insulated life working and living close to where I had grown up and spent all my years -- and it was not unpleasant, by any means, you must understand -- was that traveling is a revelation.  

Meeting new people and experiencing new places, foods and sports -- even when they are humbling and fear-inducing -- help me realize that world is small and that we need to connect and share to make life more vibrant (at least, that's how I like to think about it). Here are some of the tops destinations we've been to so far.

I had always been fairly shy. Now, I like to put myself out there a little more -- sometimes a lot more depending on how many beers I have consumed.  

I'm willing to try new things. I even am eating more unique foods, much to Mrs. In The Loop's delight. 

My initial snorkel fail was turned around when I ventured back out into the ocean, learned to relax, breath easily and enjoy the experience instead of overthinking what was happening and how I cannot control everything (a big issue of mine). You're not going to win that battle with nature. 

More new activities followed. Things that I had previously not even considered undertaking -- like running, biking, hiking, ziplining -- have greatly enhanced my travel experiences and enjoyment.  

Now, about that innate fear of scuba diving I long have battled. I think it's time to dive right in a conquer that one, too. 

What type of transformative moments have you had in your travel? 

Please share in the comments below. 

Thanks for reading, 

JR 

Travel fit. Travel happy. 


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Yes, I'm That Crazy. I Travel Long Distances for Destination Races.

5/8/2015

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By John Roberts

I've been running more regularly the past few months. In fact, I have a bit of a streak going. I told myself that I would run at least 10 miles a week this year -- for the whole year.

I have made the mileage in all but one week so far. I was sick for about five days one week in February so I missed that one. But I'm happy. The running plus my other exercise regimen of lifting weights helps keep my energy up and in shape to travel effectively.

The countdown is on for a road race I am training for, too. We will run the Utica Boilermaker 15K this year for the fourth consecutive year and my fifth time overall. The race is a huge community event in the small Upstate New York city. I used to work at the city's newspaper as an assistant sports editor back when I was just starting out in journalism. So, the race is a bit of a reunion for us as we get to go back to see old colleagues and friends.

The great thing about the Boilermaker is how the city of Utica embraces the whole event. It is the most massive thing annually for the city, and neighborhoods come out in full force to cheer on the runners. Spectators line the full 9.3 miles of the course, making it a great spectacle and gives all us runners a wonderful boost, which we often need while grinding along up and down hills in hot and humid temps in July.

Many of us in the Northeast (and every other place in the U.S., maybe) have bitched about another brutal winter that we just suffered through. Much of my maintenance training has been on the treadmill for that reason. I'm a big weather wimp and don't like getting all geared up to run outside in the cold.

Even so, I have run more regularly than ever I would guess. (I am 48 and guesstimate I have been semi-avidly running for about 14 years). The net effect of all this running talk is that I hope to get a personal best time in the Boilermaker this year.

As it relates to my interest in travel? We often like to hunt out destination runs or other fitness- or adventure-related events as a reason to go somewhere. I mean, we probably wouldn't put Utica, N.Y., at the top of any bucket list. However, if you have an interest in running, this race truly is a must-consider event. Couple the crowd energy with the top-notch organization of the nearly four-decades-old race, as well as the post-race all-you-can-enjoy Saranac beer party, and you're in for a fun time. The region also is worth exploring further afield -- Cooperstown and the Adirondack Mountains are nearby.

Runners, put the Utica Boilermaker 15K Road Race on your list. Now! Go ahead, I'll wait.

The past couple weeks, we've been able to take our training outside. A fave spot to run and bike is the Delaware and Raritan Canal State Park towpath. We live in Central New Jersey, near Trenton, and the path can be accessed at several points in our region.

The 70-mile-long popular recreational corridor is a registered historic landmark. The canal, which long ago was used to help transport goods between Philadelphia and New York, features wooden bridges, old locks, tender stations and other structures that have been preserved. The park also is home to more than 90 bird species. You can use the park for biking, running, walking, fishing, horseback riding, canoeing and kayaking.

We stick to running and biking, so far.

If you're ever in Central New Jersey, check out a stretch of the Delaware and Raritan Canal State Park, even if you just take a stroll or grab a patch of grass or bench to have your lunch while keeping the turtles and geese company.

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Yay! I'm actually running outside. Training on the towpath for my upcoming race in New York.
Basically, you get the idea. We are very excited to be able to get outside and play again this spring, and we have a nice race to look forward to -- a destination race -- and a fantastic spot nearby our home to do our training. 

I think we would go crazy if we didn't constantly have some trip or event to look forward to or some fun way to pass the time between those trips, too. 

Many of us design trips around a specific sports event, race or adventure in which we want to participate. There are all sorts of mud runs, road races, triathlons, mountain ascents, etc., that just add to the excitement of travels. 

We've taken trips to see friends and added on races that we've always wanted to try. We did the 50,000-participant Bolder Boulder (below), held in Colorado every Memorial Day. This was a visit to see friends because we used to live in Denver, and it was made even better with a fun race event and barbecue and party afterward.
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Utica Boilermaker 15K Road Race post-race party
We run for beer. The post-race party at the Utica Boilermaker 15K is legendary.
We also added on a six-mile race in Cape Cod when we went up to see friends there. It was so much fun, we did it again the next year, too.

Goals are great to have. They keep us vibrant. Sometimes, you just need to compete against yourself to get a high. Set a goal to complete a new adventure and work to conquer that challenge. When we have something to look forward to, the days just seem brighter and more fulfilling.

I also suggest entering an event that has an after-party with beer. Because you'll always be able to push yourself a little harder when you know there is beer at the finish line. (Some races have beer during the race, by the way. Even better!)

Thanks for reading,

JR
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