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We Get Our Fill During the Best Food Tour in Budapest

1/1/2020

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Our guide Gergo has a passion for food. He met the group outside the Central Market Hall in Budapest.
By John Roberts
It's a blazing hot day in the middle of summer in Budapest, and a group of 11 travelers from various parts of the world gather outside the city's iconic Central Market Hall. We come from New Jersey and Kentucky in the United States. And there is a family of four from Australia.
We're hungry to explore one of Europe's great destinations, and Gergo Csada, our guide, has just the plan to weave together the varied flavors of Hungary's cuisine and stories about the fascinating and sometimes troubled history of his hometown and country.
Gergo begins the tour exactly where you would expect. Leading us into Central Market Hall, which sits at the edge of the Danube River on the Pest side of the city just off the Liberty Bridge, he explains that the massive facility is the oldest and largest indoor market in Budapest.
The place is filled with vendors selling foods and goods brought to the market daily, and Central Market Hall is an important part of life for residents as well as a must-see destination for tourists who are interested in sampling the tastes of Hungary.
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The tour began with a look around the bustling market and several tastings of traditional Hungarian foods, such as sausages.
The first stop in the colorful and bustling market is a butcher's stand, where slabs of meats fill the glass cases and sausages hang from ropes from beams at the perimeter of the stall. We are here to sample a variety of spiced sausages. The butcher hands over a plank filled with seven types of sausages and salamis. There is pork and beef, and one row that features a distinctly darker meat. It's horse. Some in our group stifle gasps.
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Gergo says that while many tourists are not used to seeing horse on the menu back home, the meat is a traditional item used in sausages and stews in Hungary.
No one appears too shocked, and many in our group give it a try. I sample one slice of all seven varieties and note that they are all very fatty but fairly delicious, each with a different level of spice or heat.
We move on to other areas of the market hall, and we watch locals chatting with vendors, ordering fruits, veggies, meats and cheeses that will be taken home and used for the family meals.
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Paprika is the spice of Hungary.
Our next stop, we sample fried pork rinds and fried potato cheese bread, or pogacha. Gergo tells us about possibly the two most popular ingredients that are featured in most Hungarian dishes: sour cream and paprika.
Paprika was brought to the region by the conquering Ottoman Empire and has stuck around for centuries since. It's used to add flavor to soups, stews, breads and is universally recognized as a true Hungarian flavor.
Sour cream? Well, sour cream makes everything taste better, any Hungarian will tell you. 
"I'm not going to lie and tell you this is the healthiest food in the world," Gergo says. "It's a Hungarian food tour."
He says this as he hands out a favorite treat of Hungarian youngsters. The Turo Rudi is a "healthy" snack bar. Cottage cheese coated with chocolate. We gobble these up as we leave Central Market Hall and head out for more exploration around Budapest.
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An ice cream break was an ideal way to cool off on the hot day in Budapest.
Gergo suggests an ice cream stop to get a little relief from the heat. He takes us to his favorite, Levendula. Locals know this as the best ice cream in Budapest. The shop boasts dozens of unique flavors, such as Wheatbeer, Mint Raspberry, Watermelon Mojito, Sicilian pistachios and the namesake Levendula (lavender). It takes a while to order because we are dazzled by all the choices.
It's hard to believe we are just getting started because we've tried so much already.
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The immersive tour included neighborhoods around the city, such as the Jewish Quarter,
The Bites and Sights Food Tour takes about four hours to unfold, and we visit the Jewish Quarter to see the Dohany Street Great Synagogue, the second-largest in the world.
It starts to rain in mid-afternoon, and Gergo has us duck quickly into a quirky bar complex just off the street.
"It's good," he says. "I wanted to show you this place, anyway."
We are standing in a courtyard within the walls of a building filled with eclectic art, murals, posters, drawings, and other bizarre decor. It resembles a flea market more than anything else.
This is one of the city's Ruin Bars. In fact, we're in Szimpla Kert, the most famous of these bars, which are housed in old buildings that are uninhabitable but well suited these days as hip urban hangouts for eating, drinking, dancing and live music.
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I was pleased that we got to stop into a couple of the city's famed "ruin bars."
The rain lets up and we head out. Gergo promises that we will have a drink at a different Ruin Bar.
Indeed, Csendes is quaint and filled with only locals except for our group. Our drink order includes spritzers. White wine and rose. These are like sports drinks, Gergo says, good for cooling off in summer time. I order a Soproni IPA.
This is just the kind of place you would want to spend a few hours at when out on your own in Budapest.
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The food kept coming during the four-hour tour.
We're close to the home stretch. It's Halkakas Fish Bistro for more food. Fried carp, silver carp and olive pate and fried catfish are placed in front of us. We devour it.
Then, Koleves, a quaint eatery with a pretty garden in the Jewish Quarter, for a traditional matzo ball soup and an apricot and mint soup. Finally, we cap our food fest with what every good culinary tour in Hungary must feature: goulash.
Gergo takes us to Ferenc Jozef Sorozo, a restaurant that serves traditional fare, and we plunge our spoons into bowls of hearty goulash, topping them with paprika, of course. We get a sweet finish to our tour.
The final calorie bomb is Hungarian trifle, a layered pastry with sponge cakes, syrup, walnuts, vanilla cream and chocolate sauce.
Somehow, we find room in our stomachs to finish every bite.

Thanks for reading,
JR

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Hotel Review: Aria Hotel Budapest Hits All the Right Notes

8/28/2018

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Pool at Aria Hotel Budapest
The serene pool and spa area was one of my favorite spots at Aria Hotel Budapest, which is a 5-star luxury boutique hotel in the center of the city.
By John Roberts

Perhaps the best thing you can say about a hotel is that once you arrive, you don't really feel like leaving the property.

Meaning, it's a destination in itself.

I stayed at Aria Hotel Budapest and honestly felt the tug to spend all my time relaxing in comfort and enjoying the full range of amenities at this luxury boutique hotel.

Believe me, that's saying something because the great capital city of Hungary offers travelers so much to see and do.

Obviously, I'm not the first person who has fallen under the spell of Aria Hotel Budapest. The property opened in 2015, and by 2017, it was rated the top hotel in the world in the annual TripAdvisor Travelers' Choice Awards.

The music-themed hotel is part of the Library Hotel Collection that includes the Hotel Giraffe, Hotel Elysee, Hotel Casablanca and Library Hotel in New York City; Aria Hotel Prague and Hotel X in Toronto.

Aria Hotel Budapest hosted me for a three-night stay during my time in Budapest and simply asked that I give an honest review of my experience. Let me tell you all about what I found.
Aria Hotel Budapest
The Music Garden 
Aria Hotel Budapest hits all the right notes for music fans, with decor that immediately immerses guests in a vocal, visual and aural journey into the art form. Approaching the entrance of the hotel -- which has breathed new life into a refurbished 1870s bank building in the Pest side of the Danube River -- I am greeted by a doorman, who helps me quickly check in, get my key and escorts me to my room.

But first, we go through the Music Garden, an under-glass courtyard area that features a modern-classic Boganyi grand piano as its centerpiece, sitting at the end of a winding ribbon of black and white keys on the floor of the garden.  
Boganyi grand piano at Aria Hotel Budapest
This is the space for guests to refuel and start their days with the included morning farm-to-table breakfast. You get fresh fruits, breads, oatmeal, cereals, cheese, meats, and made-to-order eggs, waffles and more. The Music Garden is also home to a wine, cheese and hors d'oeuvres reception accompanied by a musician from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. each day.

The space is filled with shiny green cushion
ed chairs on which to sit and relax. Off this courtyard area is the Stradivari Restaurant and the concierge office (which features a music library of more than 100 CDs to take to play in your room).

Satchmo's Library (a quiet space to sit and read or have a couple drinks)
, Satchmo's Bar and the guest reception desk are located off the front lobby.
Satchmo's Library at Aria Hotel Budapest
Satchmo's Library is a quite space to enjoy a meal, drinks or just read while listening to music.
Satchmo's Bar at Aria Hotel Budapest
Satchmo's Bar is a blue dream, where you drink with friends under the watchful eye of Marilyn Monroe.
I had a dinner one night at Stradivari Restaurant. A musical staff covers one wall, and violins hang from the ceiling, giving the space a whimsical feel as you dine. It's bistro-style menu features Hungarian classic flavors with a modern twist. We enjoyed a tasting menu featuring beef and fish courses from soups, appetizers to entrees that used plenty of local vegetables, meaning the meals was fairly light and healthy -- for Hungarian cuisine.

The Music Garden is indeed a focal spot, where hotel guests and non-guests gather for meals and music in a casual environment.

Each corner of the ground floor is home to one of the four themed wings of the 49-room hotel. Aria Hotel Budapest boasts a "thematic" for each of its four towers: classical, opera, contemporary and jazz.
Stradivari Restaurant at Aria Hotel Budapest
The Stradivari Restaurant displays violins hanging from the ceiling.
The Spa 
One floor below is the serene Harmony Spa, and I find myself blissfully alone many of the times I decide to head down. The gym is small, so your workout options are fairly limited. But there is enough in there to work up a bit of a sweat using the dumbbells, treadmills, bikes and ellipticals.

The pool area is a work of art. Dimly lit and featuring music-themed art (of course), this space has canopied beds, loungers and chairs to use while taking dips in the pool and hot tub.


The spa offers a range of massages and other treatments, and I 
enjoy a 30-minute head and neck massage shortly after check in to help unwind after my airplane flight. I also make several trips to the saunas during my three days in the hotel.
Pool at Aria Hotel Budapest
Massage room at Harmony Spa at Aria Hotel Budapest
The pool and treatment rooms at the hotel offer calm spots of relaxation.
The Rooftop Bar
The High Note Sky Bar is the signature destination for visitors, guests and Budapest residents. This spectacular rooftop space was one of the first in the city, and it certainly might be the best. Aria Hotel Budapest and its rooftop bar are so well-regarded, in fact, that many celebrities make it a point to stay at the hotel or at least swing by for a night at High Note Sky Bar.

I checked in just a few days after Will Smith, Jada Pinkett-Smith and members of their family had stayed. Check out Will Smith's Instagram post just below here to see them enjoying the rooftop scenery.

Also, Arnold Schwarzenegger had just arrived in Budapest to shoot his next "Terminator" movie, and staff said they expected he would be coming by during his time in the city.

You can take the girl to Budapest... but you can’t take the Baltimore outta the Girl. @jadapinkettsmith. Thanx @ariahotelbudapest

A post shared by Will Smith (@willsmith) on Jun 19, 2018 at 1:20pm PDT

High Note Sky Bar offers inviting cushioned wicker seats and day beds and owns fabulous views over the city, with St. Stephen's Basilica looming right next door. The space has two pavilions, one serving as the bar area and the other that can be used for events like weddings and rooftop yoga sessions.
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High Note Sky Bar at Aria Hotel Budapest
The views you get while enjoying the fresh air atop the High Note Sky Bar at Aria Hotel Budapest are the best in the city.
This bar is especially noteworthy for its creative bar food and cocktail pairings. We enjoyed a show as the bartenders served up five different combos for our group. We noshed on apps like Taco Trio, cod fritters and duck-stuffed gyoza, as well as marinated olives and a antipasti platter of cheeses and meats, while downing alcoholic masterpieces like Fuego (mezcal, chili liquor, cucumber and citrus), Sailor Z (spiced rum, lychee liquor, grapefruit and lime) and Garden of Secrets (chamomile-infused sweet vermouth, elderflower liqueur, cherry bitter, citrus and egg white).

"We call it fine drinking," says Katalin Moor, director of sales and marketing for Aria Hotel Budapest. "All of our bartenders and 
bar managers come from Michelin-star restaurants, so they have high expectations.

"They really do cocktails as an art
."

High Note Sky Bar is the only year-round rooftop bar in the city, and it changes its d
ecor to host events with specific themes throughout the year, such as in the wintertime last year using the theme of "The Forest." This year, the winter theme will be "Classical Movies," which also offers good tie-ins with the music stylings of the hotel because of some great soundtracks to choose from.
High Note Sky Bar at Aria Hotel Budapest drinks
Bartenders have an active role in custom crafting the hotel's cocktails, which are paired with delicious tapas-style foods.
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The Rooms
Our room was in the Jazz wing and is themed for Nat King Cole. Every room throughout the property features a music artist or group of singers. Fans can book rooms that honor the Beatles, Rolling Stones, Michael Jackson, Mozart, B.B. King, Frank Sinatra and Irving Berlin, for several examples.

See the full list here: Spend your nights with a music legend

Rooms might have either street views or views of the courtyard. We were on the sixth floor and overlooked the courtyard and could see up to the rooftop area. A small balcony features outdoor seating with tables. Inside, the large, comfortable bed is the centerpiece of an open-room concept. Our room also had a desk, deep soaker bathtub (yes, right in the bedroom space), a two-seater couch, a small lounger, large TV (housed smartly within a marble fireplace mantle) and a mini-fridge.

The Nouveau-style furnishings fit nicely with the jazz vibe in our room. Our brick-look ceiling was in keeping with the original construction of the building. The room also offers a standalone wardrobe closet next to a sink; this area is divided from the main space by a small wall. A separate bathroom is adorned by a chandelier and features a large walk-in shower.

Amenities include an entertainment system run through the TV that contains a library of thousands of songs. You can build playlists and search for your favorite artists and styles. The hotel also has a resident music concierge to help with all your music needs, whether at the property or for booking a concert.

Rooms also provide Molten Brown toiletries, as well as iPads and Handy phones for use during your stay. These devices offer an incredible added value for guests, who can load apps onto the iPad or phone. The Handy phone also allows you to make calls to more than 40 countries without incurring any charges.

After all was said and done for our stay in Budapest, I really wish I had more time to fully enjoy the awesomeness of the room. One more time soaking in that tub. A few more hours listening to Prince, Tom Petty or Beethoven with the speakers on full blast.
Balcony at Aria Hotel Budapest
Aria Hotel Budapest
Our balcony and the view above the Music Garden below.

Video Tour of Aria Hotel Budapest: Our Room and All the Spaces

The Bottom Line
Even with all the conveniences and extras that come with your room rate, the best part of the stay for me was the friendly service and attention I enjoyed and witnessed as an ongoing practice throughout Aria Hotel Budapest.

Each guest is greeted cheerfully and asked whether they need anything or told to "Have a great day" as they head out the door to explore Budapest.

The hotel lulls you into a calm state, and I found myself often just plopping down for a spell in the Music Garden to listen to the music, read the newspaper or enjoy a drink in peace. The hotel's music theme is excellently executed, with design that is attractive but not too "in your face."

Songs and sounds are ever present. Even the elevators in each wing feature the appropriate music to match your room's theme. On the way up to our Nat King Cole suite in the Jazz wing, we would be accompanied by classic tunes from Thelonious Monk, Ella Fitzgerald or Dave Brubek.

Music fans visiting the city will certainly want to consider Aria Hotel Budapest for their accommodations.

The location is within two blocks (about a 7-minute stroll) to the Danube River right by the Chain Bridge. You also are located close to the start of the popular pedestrian way, Vaci Street, which is filled with shops, restaurants and bars and leads right to the Great Market Hall.

It'
s also within 15 minutes of the Opera House and Dohany Street Synagogue.

Wi-Fi is included and strong, and the hotel is smoke-free. Room rates average about $350 a night.

If you find a good price that fits your budget through a hotel booking site, I don't think you will regret treating yourself to a stay at Aria Hotel Budapest. You might even find that your cruise line offers a pre- or post-cruise night at the hotel before Danube voyages.

Thanks for reading, and happy travels.
JR
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Eating Our Way Around Budapest with Urban Adventures

8/13/2018

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Csendes ruin bar in Budapest
We loved getting to enjoy a cold one at a "Ruin Bar." This is Csendes, popular among Budapest locals.
By John Roberts

The best 
travel experiences allow you to really sink your teeth into your destination. 
That's why we love food tours, where you get to eat a little while also learning the finer details of a place.

We took the Budapest Bites and Sights tour with Urban Adventures on our recent trip to Hungary's capital, and it'
s a good thing we did as much walking as we did chewing.

Did I say eat a little? Yeah, we ate quite a lot when I think about it.


We met our guide, 
Gergo, outside the famed Central Market Hall in Budapest on a blazing hot summer day in August, and were treated to a delightful tour. Colleen and I were joined by eight other travelers who, like us, had a hunger to learn more about the food and history of Budapest and the nation of Hungary.

We always look for an Urban Adventures tour when we are traveling because the company offers intimate and immersive experiences. Group sizes are never more than about a dozen people, and you get to go into the heart of cool cities, away from where the masses tend to congregate.


We have also taken beer tours with the company in Philadelphia; San Jose, Costa Rica; and Prague, Czech Republic. These were all incredibly fun times among fellow adventurers who share similar interests.


This time, in Budapest, we ventured away from our typical beer-centric outing and focused more on an overall culinary exploration of Budapest. (Urban Adventures does have a beer tour in Budapest, of course. We'
ll try it next time.)

Gergo
 began by leading us into the vibrant and colorful Central Market Hall, which buzzes with locals doing their daily shopping and tourists hunting for an authentic meal or perfect taste of Hungary to take home as a souvenir. Many snag a variety of paprika to bring to their kitchens back home.

Our group also included a family of four from Kentucky and another family foursome from Australia. Here are the three ways the Urban Adventures Budapest Bites and Sights tour really hit the spot during our four-hour experience.
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Gergo greets our eager group just outside Central Market Hall.
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Our first flavor of the day: sausages. So many sausages!
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The Food
We start at a butcher's stall in the market, and Gergo shows us a colorful lineup of seven kinds of sausage. He tells us what they are and how they range in spiciness. One of the varieties is horse.

The use of this animal as food can be curious to non-Hungarians, he says, but it'
s a traditional food in his country.

Most of our group seem undeterred, 
and we dig into the smoky and spicy meats. They are also fatty.

We also sample cheeses and paprika spreads on breads. Plus, a 
Turo Rudi, a "healthy" snack of cottage cheese coated in a thin layer of chocolate that has been long favored by youngsters in Hungary.

Later, it's a stop at 
Levendula, a delightful ice cream shop that offers an amazing array of creative flavors. They have wheat beer ice cream, cinnamon apricot, chestnut with mascarpone, watermelon mojitos and so many more. Even gluten-free varieties. We delight in the refreshing sweetness, a perfect respite from the 94-degree heat of the city.

But it's soon time to move. We hit up a ruin bar (more on that later) for beers and spritzers, then a fish bistro to try fried carp and catfish.


We'
re starting to feel a little full, but a couple more stops to go as we eat our way through Budapest.

Most everything comes with paprika in the recipes or helping to flavor the accompanying breads. It's the national flavor of Hungary after all. We also get ample servings of sour cream with our foods. 
Gergo has told us that we shouldn't expect to find the healthiest food on his tour . . . just some of the tastiest.

He didn't lie.


We down bowls full of matzo ball soup and apricot and mint soup at a charming bistro in the Jewish Quarter. Then, finally, the big finish with H
ungarian goulash and slices of trifle cake for dessert at the pub Ferenc Jozsef.
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Just a few of the many flavors at Levendula in Budapest.
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We ate three varieties of fried fish at Halkakas Fish Bistro.
The History
In between our bites, we see the sights, racking up miles passing through the city. The tour suitably starts at the historic Central Market Hall, which is the largest and oldest public market in Budapest.

Much of the tour passes through the historic Jewish Quarter, and we h
ave our matzo ball soup at one of the top kosher restaurants in the city. Gergo also shows us the second-largest synagogue in the world, the Dohany Street Great Synagogue. (We view it from the outside; it's worth a second visit to tour inside.)

We tour quieter streets and hear about unique facets of architecture and how Pest had to be rebuilt after being inundated during the massive 1838 flood. The city still floods but defenses and construction measures since the Great Flood of Pest have helped avert more serious disasters.
Csendes bar in Budapest
Csendes is a hip bar in a quiet neighborhood off the beaten path. It's a popular spot for locals to hang out.
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Off the Beaten Path
Urban Adventures touts its tagline "Locals Know," and this rings true as their guides are experts in curating itineraries for visitors that show where the residents, live work, play and eat.

A highlight for me are stops at two
"Ruin Bars" to learn about these hip hangouts that have sprung up from repurposed run-down post-communism historic buildings. These once-beautiful structures grew derelict during the lean decades and are no longer inhabitable as residences. However, they are perfect as pubs, with purposely mismatched decor creatively arranged in courtyards and inside gritty spaces.

The walls are filled with whatever was found, either in the abandoned space before it became the bar or gathered at flea markets or from attic spaces. There are creepy dolls nailed next to animal heads, murals, posters and other artwork, graffiti and drawings. Victorian furniture is intermingled with rustic benches. Anything goes, and the result is fantastically charming. These are hot spots for gossiping during lazy afternoons, and they come to life for music and dancing each night.

Colleen and I sip a Soprani IPA at Csendes, and our group also drinks down a few white wine spritzers. Gergo says they are the summer "sports drink" in Hungary.

We also briefly visit the city's first ruin bar, Szimpla Kert, which started the trend for these popular quirky venues when it opened in 2004 in the Jewish Quarter.

Although Budapest is bustling with tourists, Gergo brings us to serene streets to see how citizens live away from the crowds. We eat at local restaurants and get a real sense of what it feels like to be Hungarian -- if only for a few hours.

We love these kinds of days abroad. I think it gives a better feel for the true taste of a destination.

How fulfilling!

Do you have any fun memories of Budapest or any any food tours from around the world that you have experienced? Please share in the comments below.

Thanks for reading,
JR
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