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The Best Destinations Along the Sea of Cortez in Mexico

3/4/2020

2 Comments

 
Loreto, Mexico
The pretty marina at Loreto, Mexico.
By John Roberts and Ryan and Kelly McDaniel

Ryan and Kelly sailed with Cruise and Maritime Voyages on assignment for In The Loop Travel on the historic cruise ship MV Astoria.
On this voyage, they were able to explore destinations along Mexico's Sea of Cortez and Baja California Sur.
This beautiful part of Mexico is home to numerous charming small ports that have a lot to offer for adventurous travelers.
Honestly, you will rarely find cruise itineraries that stop in these places, but getting on this cruise with MV Astoria gave us the chance to show off four of the best Mexico destinations that are well worth a look for your overland travels, too.
In fact, you'll be happy to have more time to fully immerse yourself in the rich history and culture offered by La Paz, Guaymas, Loreto and Santa Rosalia.
In an effort to highlight great off-the-beaten-path places around the world, here is your quick guide to these best spots along the Sea of Cortez in Mexico.
La Paz, Mexico
Destination: La Paz
Cruise ships dock in this rustic port, which is also a commercial marine facility serving the town of almost 250,00 people. While not specifically geared toward cruise ships, vendors set up a few tents to sell souvenirs and other wares just off the dock. There is a nice little terminal there, but that's about it.
About
La Paz is known for the whale sharks that inhabit the area's waters from October through May each year. Pacific Manta Rays visit in the summer. Humpbacks also come to the warm and calm waters during their migration season from December to April. This is where the whales come to feed, mate and give birth. You also can see plenty of dolphins if you visit during these times.
La Paz, which is the capital and cultural center of Baja California Sur, also features a permanent colony of sea lions and is well known for spectacular sunsets.
Seafood places are everywhere, and the food is fresh. Balandra Beach is consistently voted one of the best in Mexico.
Don't Miss
Malecon: La Paz's malecon is beautiful. The well-maintained waterfront offers with statues on every block, public spaces, playgrounds, wandering Mariachi bands and other music. Visitors enjoy the artwork, landscaping and shops just across the street. This is a great place for a jog, walk or just to sit back and enjoy the people watching.
Balandra Beach: The gorgeous strip of sand offers access to clear blue waters in a calm bay with cliffs jutting out of the sea. This is home to the "mushroom," the iconic geological symbol of La Paz (which is a natural mushroom-shaped rock formation that was destroyed years ago but re-erected with cement reinforcements.
Getting Around
The port is fairly far away from downtown or any other built-out areas of La Paz. The destination receives only about 30 cruise ship visits each year, compared with much busier spots like Cabo San Lucas at 300. Taxis are available at the port, but can be scarce. You cannot walk to any destinations from the port. If you cruise to La Paz, your ship might provide a shuttle bus to get to the downtown area, which is located about 10 miles away.
The Bottom Line
La Paz has a nice downtown, especially around the malecon. It also has a good range of options if you want to spend an active day enjoying nature. It's a nice mix of both worlds. It's a bit of a hassle the port not near downtown or the beaches. Therefore, you should plan for extra time to get to and from your excursions if arriving by ship.
How We Spent Our Day
In the morning, we enjoyed a late breakfast at Bismark restaurant, which offers several fresh seafood options. Then, we spent an hour at the town's regional history museum where our guide Emmanuel gave us a brief overview of the history of La Paz and the surrounding region.
Next, we went back to the malecon and had an hour to stroll. Afterward, we took the bus to a small harbor where our group split in two, boarded tour boats and cruised around the coastline learning about the native bird species, their mating grounds, the sea lion colonies and Balandra Beach.
After the short cruise, the bus took us to a beach restaurant where we ate dinner and watched the sunset. Then, we hopped back on the bus, and actually went to Balandra Beach where we were able to walk around at low tide. Residents hang out well past sunset and vendors sell snacks.
Balandra Beach is definitely a must-see attraction in La Paz and would be a neat place any time of day.
I think your time in La Paz would be best spent enjoying water activities because there is so much abundant wildlife. This is a fantastic destination for active travelers.
Guaymas, Mexico
Destination: Guaymas (for San Carlos)
Cruise ships dock at the pier. The immediate area around the pier is nice, with a small terminal for buses, well-maintained landscaping and a display of national flags. There is not much to do near the cruise port in Guaymas, but this the port stop for exploring San Carlos, a beachfront community within the city.
About
Guaymas (population around 134,000) is a gateway to a host of nature activities, with access to the sea, mountains and desert within the state of Sonora. The region's ecosystem is home to endemic flora and fauna, especially on display in the beautiful Nacapule Canyon, located about 12 miles from Guaymas. The port is primarily an industrial area supporting commercial shrimp fishing.
Don't Miss
San Carlos: Go to explore the El Mirador (viewing point) in San Carlos is the city's popular sunset spot. The modern seaside town of San Carlos is about a one-hour drive from Guaymas and features beaches and the opportunity for boat tours to see whales, sea lions, sea birds and dolphins.
Mount Tetakawi: The mountain is an iconic part of the scenery of San Carlos, and you can hike the well-marked path to reach 656 above sea level on this mountain that is sacred to the native tribes and believed to possess healing powers. It takes about two hours roundtrip for this hike.
Nacapule Canyon: This natural wonder also offers a range of recreational activities to enjoy, such as hiking and birdwatching amid the rock walls, boulders and palm trees.
Getting Around
The old downtown is within walking distance from the pier, probably about 15 minutes, but it is not a nice walk. The route goes past decrepit buildings, abandoned lots and through industrial areas. Our ship arranged a free shuttle from the pier to the central plaza in old downtown that ran about every 15 minutes. Taxis also are located just outside of the port authority area. Outside of old downtown, the city is fairly built up. (We spotted a mall on our drive that had a Sam's Club, Walmart and GNC.)
The Bottom Line
Guaymas doesn't offer much to see or do. The central square has a pretty church and a nicely landscaped central lawn area with a large gazebo. It was full of vendors when we got there, and that was nice, but that was pretty much it.
This is mainly the jumping off point to get to the tourist area of San Carlos, an hour's drive away. San Carlos is a built up and westernized seaside town. The wildlife/scenic cruise was quite enjoyable -- it was narrated by a guide who pointed out geographical sights as well as various birds, sea lions, and the cruise highlight -- bottlenose dolphins! We received a light snack and soft drinks. It was well-organized and lasted about an hour and a half.
Loreto, Mexico
Destination: Loreto
If you cruise to reach Loreto you will tender ashore. There is a protected little marina filled with panga boats and pelicans. The town is located right off the pier, with a simple malecon winding along the oceanside.
Several blocks of pedestrian walkways branch off from the malecon, and the port is recognizable from its distinctive Sea Lion statue that welcomes visitors. Loreto has a population of just more than 20,000 people.
About
Loreto is a quiet and charming destination, especially when compared with more bustling locations like the crowded beach towns of Cabo San Lucas or Cancun. The first mission of the Camino Real was built here in 1697 and is located right in downtown Loreto. The story goes that the first Jesuits to arrive in Loreto brought a donkey with them, and the animal stopped 200 meters from the shore and refused to move, no matter what they tried. They took it as a sign and established the mission on that spot.
The top activities include whale watching, snorkeling and diving at any of the several islands around the city. The primary one we heard about is Coronado. Another top attraction is San Javier Mission, about an hour drive outside of the city.
Don't Miss
San Javier Mission: The cathedral was founded in 1699 and is the third oldest on the Camino Real and has been in continuous use it was established. It is situated in the mountains among olive and orange trees. There is a 300-year-old olive tree behind the cathedral that was planted around the founding of the mission. The trip to the mission is a feast for the eyes, as the trip takes you winding through the mountains. The climate changes from desert to steppe, almost temperate with more vegetation as you rise higher along the historic Camino Real.
Islands of Loreto: The islands in Loreto Bay have sandy beaches, rocky shores and gorgeous desert landscapes that make the attractive homes for seabirds, sea lions and other wildlife. Isla Coronado and Isla Catalina, along with other smaller named and nameless islands make up the Bay of Loreto National Park. You can rent a boat or join a tour to get over to explore these blissful wonderlands.
Getting Around
Right off the ship, you can walk around Loreto very easily. The town features shops, restaurants, grocery stores, souvenir shops and banks. Taxi drivers and panga operators are available at the port and are eager to take you on tours. San Javier Mission requires about an hour-long ride through the mountains.
The Bottom Line
The town is a delight and easy to wander and enjoy. There is lots to see and do, especially for those looking for good food or shopping opportunities. If you have time, get over to the islands to visit (we, sadly, did not have time). The drive to San Javier was gorgeous (albeit bumpy) and a definite highlight of our visit.
We recommend a visit to El Rey Del Taco (about a 10-minute walk from the pier along Calle Benito Juarez) for "the most authentic tacos I've ever eaten." They have a simple, fresh and delicious beef and fish tacos.
We would love to come back to Loreto and spend a week snorkeling, eating and relaxing!
Santa Rosalia, Mexico
Destination: Santa Rosalia
Cruise ships anchor here, and passengers tender to the pier. Immediately off the dock is the mining museum, which is the abandoned mine cut directly into the hillside. Santa Rosalia receives infrequent cruise ship visits -- our stop was the first in 10 years. The town had held multiple meetings in preparation for our visit and was abuzz as our small 550-passenger MV Astoria stopped for the day. A Mariachi band played as we stepped off our tender boats.
We passed a large group of local media photographing and covering the ship's arrival and even the governor was on hand to welcome passengers and crew. The farmers market area has several stands selling jewelry, baked goods and other items.
About
Santa Rosalia is an old mining town located on the Gulf of California coast of the Baja California Sur peninsula.
A French mining company Compagnie du Boleo founded the town in 1885 to commercially mine copper, and hundreds of workers died working in the El Boleo Mine as the company exploited the workers and employed labor-intensive practices with poor safety conditions.
The city has a population of about 14,000 and features a mining history museum full of old mining equipment that gives visitors a glimpse at what it might have been like to work in the mines. The French influences are still very present in the architecture (the rich people lived in the French Quarter at the highest elevations of town).
A ferry runs between Santa Rosalia and Guaymas a few times a week.
Don't Miss
Panaderia El Boleo: This French bakery was established in 1901. You can watch bakers create French and Mexican pastries in their rustic facility. The Old West-style factory pumps out plenty of tasty treats that visitors have been coming to enjoy for more than a century.
Iglesia Santa Barbara: Perhaps most well-known is this metal prefab church with a disputed legacy. The church was shown in Paris at the 1889 Exposition Universelle and acquired by the Boleo Mining Co. and brought to Santa Rosalia. Much of the interest in the church is derived through the locally accepted retellings of its history that state it was designed by Gustave Eiffel (this claim is unconfirmed and regularly contested).
Hotel Frances: This National Historic Monument was founded in 1886 by the mining company. This is a good option if you're are staying in Santa Rosalia, or you can just come to have a look around the historic hotel property that evokes a period from a century ago.
Scenic Lookout: When visiting the French Quarter that overlooks the town, take the steps up to enjoy the impressive vistas. You get a wonderful view of the harbor and will be able to collect some memorable pictures from here.
Getting Around 
A tourist office is situated just off the dock. You'll also find several taxis on call for visitors. This is the area where tour buses will meet any cruise visitors. The Old Town is also a walkable distance from the port. The aforementioned ferry that runs between Santa Rosalia and Guaymas is here.
The Bottom Line
We found the town to have an interesting vibe -- with a mix of French and Wild West feel. Santa Rosalia has a nice little central plaza but is not specifically geared toward tourists but is a bustling place full of activity. Indeed, this is what might make this destination all the more attractive to travelers who are seeking a more immersive "everyday life" kind of experience in Mexico.
One day is enough to see almost everything in Santa Rosalia.

Video feature: The Pretty Ports on the Sea of Cortez in Mexico

Mexico remains one of our favorite places in the world, with a seemingly endless number of towns and unique destinations that offer something for every traveler. And these charming towns and villages along the Sea of Cortez offer a wonderful look at the history and natural beauty that defines this special region.

Thanks for reading,
JR, Kelly and Ryan

All photo credits for this post are to Ryan and Kelly. Thanks so much to them for working with me on covering this experience.
Check out more of their fabulous travels on their Watch Us Wander YouTube channel.
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The 10 Best Cenotes in Mexico

4/26/2018

6 Comments

 
Sac-Actun cenote in Mexico
The Sac-Actun sinkhole is one of the prettiest and most geologically interesting cenotes in Mexico.
By John Roberts

One reason I love to return to the Yucatan Peninsula often is to explore the interesting natural features of the region.

The Yucatan Peninsula is located in the southeast portion of Mexico and separates the waters of the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. The peninsula is home to such destinations as the Mayan ruins of Coba and Tulum, Cancun, Riviera Maya, Playa del Carmen and other gorgeous towns that attract tourists for the beaches, food and nightlife.

Some of the adventures and outdoor activities you can enjoy in the Yucatan are horseback riding, swimming, snorkeling, hiking, ziplining, climbing ropes courses, diving and kayaking. I'm most fascinated by the region's cenotes, though.

Cenotes are large sinkholes that develop after the porous limestone that serves as the bedrock of the region collapses. This provides fascinating access to underground waterways and crystal-clear turquoise waters.  The Yucatan Peninsula is home to thousands of cenotes, and adventurous visitors can rappel down to submerge themselves into these fascinating natural formations and take a swim in a surreal underworld.

Cenotes possess a mystical quality, and they are regarded with incredibly high spiritual significance to the native people. Many residents in the Yucatan trace their ancestry to ancient Maya people, who were one of the most advanced indigenous civilizations in the Americas beginning more than two centuries ago.

The cenotes are regarded as sacred wells that connect people to the world below. Ancient Maya people would throw live men into the sinkholes, as well as valuables like precious stones, as a way to please important gods who resided in the Maya underworld. These offerings were especially important in times of drought as a way to bring on vital rains.

We visited a cenote on our way to the ruins at Coba and were honored to be blessed by a shaman in a ceremony prior to our rappelling and swimming adventure (see video at end of post). It's an amazing experience and one that any visitor to the Yucatan Peninsula should consider. If you want to get around the Yucatan Peninsula to see cenotes and other points of interest, Car Rental Cancun is a good option to let you set your own schedule during your time in Mexico. It's also a lot more affordable and helps to avoid the crowds compared with group tours to these spots.

To help you plan your visit, we've broken down the 10 best cenotes in Mexico.

Sacred Cenote -- This is the original "Well of Sacrifice," where many Maya people were sent for a final plunge into what now serves as a pleasant swimming hole (up to 130 feet deep) at the famous Chichen Itza archaeological site.

Ik Kil -- This awesome attraction is highly popular because it falls on the route to see the Mayan ruins at Chichen Itza (one of the New 7 Wonders of the World). Ik Kil is a spectacular swimming hole -- 200 feet in diameter and 120 feet deep. The facility is well developed, with a buffet restaurant and accommodations to stay overnight.

Gran Cenote -- This is one of the most accessible, popular and stunningly scenic cenotes in Mexico. Gran Cenote is on the main route to the Coba ruins and is a great spot for snorkeling. You can spot fish, turtles and lush tropical plants.

Dos Ojos -- Located near Tulum, Dos Ojos (Two Eyes) hooks up to one of the longest underwater cave systems in the world. The site has two pools, a really dark one and one that is a shimmering blue, and you can snorkel, dive and hike there, while spotting stalactites and bats.

Sac-Actun -- This distinctive cenote features impressive stalactites formations dangling from the rooftop and lovely turquoise water. Sac-Actun is more than 300 feet deep and known as one of the most beautiful cenotes in Mexico.

Ucil -- This is among the deepest cenotes in the Yucatan Peninsula at about 370 feet. Ucil is nice because it features a semi-enclosed pool grotto with blue water. Cenote Ucil is located in the town of . . . wait for it . . . Cenotillo, which is known for having several cenotes as well as interesting archaeolical sites.

Uch-Ben-Ha -- This spot is good for snorkeling because it is more in the open and receives sunshine. This means the water is warmer and offers good visibility to spot fish. Uch-Ben-Ha is located within the Katun-Chi ecopark, which has several cenotes, grottoes, caverns and plants, flowers and animals to discover.

Zacil-Ha -- Another fully developed facility, Zacil-Ha looks like an in-ground swimming pool with emerald waters. Deck chairs and loungers surround the circular swimming hole, and a small restaurant offers food, drinks and snacks. This cenote also features a short zipline that you grab onto, enjoy a little ride and then drop in for a plunge.

Azul Bacalar -- This open-water cenote evokes comparisons to Belize's famed Blue Hole. Likewise, it is a mecca for divers. Azul Bacalar is located just off a coastal road in the town of Bacalar and is separated from a nearby lake by a strip of land. Swimmers generally will stick closer to shore, and divers delight in being able to explore the massive sinkhole that reaches depths of almost 300 feet.

Calavera -- This secluded spot near Tulum is known as the "Temple of Doom" cenote. Calavera is a small swimming hole but has evolved features that make it ideal to jump into. The cenote's roof has broken away, leaving an open hole about 10 feet above the water that allows you to take a fun leap in. There is also a wooden ladder for less-adventurous visitors.

Have you had the joy of swimming in a cenote? Been to any of these or other cool swimming holes in Mexico? Tell us all about it.

Thanks for reading,
JR
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In a Pinch, We Hopped on a Boat in Cabo San Lucas

10/15/2015

1 Comment

 
Boat tour in Cabo San Lucas to see El Arco
Our boat tour in Cabo San Lucas took four of us out to see El Arco.
By John Roberts 

Our excursion company let us down in Cabo San Lucas. 


We knew our ship, Celebrity Infinity, would be showing up to port in Cabo later than a typical cruise ship arrival time, so we checked several times with the tour booking company, Viator, to ensure our 11 a.m. arrival would be OK. We were told: "No problem; they know the ship is later that day. They will wait for you." 


Guess what? They didn't wait.

We got a refund from Viator, thankfully. But we were now in Cabo San Lucas with no snorkeling trip after diligently planning (that's what Mrs. In The Loop does) about eight months in advance almost every detail of our excursion plan for our 17-day cruise. I guess we should have expected one hiccup for such a long itinerary.

 

So, we improvised. It was an extremely hot and humid day in Cabo, which made it uncomfortable walking around after we tendered ashore that afternoon. This also added to the frustration in our group, with all the tour hawkers constantly harassing us.
 

"Yes, we do want to do something today." 

"No, we are not yet sure what." 

"No, I don't want to swim with dolphins."

"Please give us a moment of peace to weigh our options. Ugh."


We finally settled on a boat tour out of the marina to see the famed El Arco rock formation and other sites of note.

Just the four of us in a boat with a skipper: $10 each for two hours. (Note: you have to pay an 
additional $1 just to walk onto the pier to get into your boat; thanks Mexico.) 


While we had missed out on our planned snorkeling outing, I suspect we lucked out. I have a feeling the boat that left without us that morning was now in a ridiculously crowded area alongside about five other boats I could see that had delivered a horde of fin-flapping tourists to a cramped roped-off spot to look at fish chummed to that same spot with wads of bread.

The whole scene was
 a trembling mass, and I wanted no part of it. 


Onward to El Arco . . .


We saw several interesting formations, caves, a pod of lounging and smelly sea lions and went past Lovers Beach and Divorce Beach.

​Perhaps the coolest thing we saw was how friendly sea lions hop onto the back of fishing boats heading into and out of the marina. Crew treat the sea lions to leftover bait fish, and they love it. It's quite a sight to see these big brown animals crawl right up onto the back ledge of the boats.
 
El Arco in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
The arch El Arco is an iconic rock formation just outside the marina in Cabo San Lucas.
Sea lion on a rock in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.
This guy has got relaxing down to an art form. I want to know how it got up there.
Lovers Beach in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
A crowd starts to form out at Lovers Beach on a hot afternoon.
After our tour, we escaped to a tavern to cool down and have beers and guacamole. Not the best day in Cabo San Lucas, but we made it work. 
 

Thanks for reading. Travel happy! 

JR 
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