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I Was on White Island in New Zealand

12/17/2019

1 Comment

 
White Island in New Zealand
White Island was one of the destinations we visited during a multi-sport adventure in New Zealand with Backroads.
By John Roberts
People around the world are hearing about New Zealand's White Island, perhaps for the very first time, and for an extremely sad reason.
At least 18 people were killed and many others injured when the volcano erupted while dozens of tourists were visiting this fascinating natural attraction.
White Island is located in the Bay of Plenty off the coast of the country's North Island and is New Zealand's most-active volcano. The privately owned island is a destination for tourists and scenic helicopter flights. The island is owned by the Buttle Family Trust and operates as a scenic reserve, which is open to tourism with access granted to designated tour operators.
The island is monitored closely by a government agency that puts out bulletins that warn of increased volcanic activity.
According to an article in Afar, the agency GeoNet "had reported increased activity at the volcano for several weeks, raising the warning level to 2 out of 5, but still reported that the island was safe for visitors. (A level 2 alert means moderate volcanic unrest.) Currently, Krakatoa in Indonesia is also a level 2, as are two famous volcanoes in Italy, Mount Etna and Stromboli."
In the same article, volcanologists said the deadly eruption that happened December 9, 2019, was "the worst kind of freak accident."
This tragedy has stirred emotional reactions for me -- because I spent time exploring during my time in New Zealand early this year. It was an amazing visit, and I considered a highlight of my first time in this beautiful country.
When 17 fellow adventurers and I stepped ashore as a group at White Island, we were traveling with Backroads on a wonderful multisport expedition. We shared a whole range of magical experiences over the course of 10 days during which we went to both the North Island and South Island. Our morning stop at White Island, also known by its Maori name Whakaari, was a low-impact walk and offered a thrilling way to take a bit of a rest from our daily long hikes, bike rides and kayaking activities.
Thousands of visitors come to White Island every year because it is a stunning formation. About 70 percent is under the water, with the cone and crater popped above the surface and easy to reach by small boats.
We landed by Zodiac from our cruise ship, Ponant's Le Laperouse, and wandered ashore to grab gas masks and helmets. Sulphur gasses hung like a mist over the moonscape-like surface, and mustard-yellow colors mixed with the browns, reds and grays in the rocky walls. Small streams of water spilled down the trail, and the waters grew warmer and revealed more colors as we got closer to the crater area. Nearing the crater, the sulfur mists were thicker, requiring those of us who hadn't already done so to place the masks over our mouths and to suck on hard candies to keep from coughing.
We learned that the island is a nesting and breeding ground for thousands of gannet birds and that a number of attempts to build a profitable sulfur-mining enterprise on the island had failed, with the last mining operations ended in the 1930s.
Remnants of the mining operations are still visible on the island, and we saw a few helicopters landing, bringing tourists and scientists.
White Island in New Zealand
White Island in New Zealand
White Island in New Zealand
White Island in New Zealand
White Island in New Zealand
White Island in New Zealand
We got this close to the rim of the crater.
I am glad I got to see such an amazing natural formation. I look at these photos you see here in this post, and I am struck by the fact that the tourists who perished were much like us and probably tracing our footsteps and discussing the same aspects and geological features of White Island, asking some of the same questions that we had of our guides. In short, it could have happened to me and my group of new friends while we were there.
But it didn't.
It happened to them. Why?
Life is mysterious.
Questions arise as to whether tourism should be allowed in such a place. I have also visited Mount Etna in Sicily, Pacaya in Guatemala and volcanos in the Philippines and Hawaii. Hiking in the wilds of Alaska comes with the risk of bear encounters. Scuba diving offers risks, as do helicopter rides over the Grand Canyon and bus journeys on sketchy roads in poorly developed countries.
Many things we do to go out and experience life come with an inherent level of risk.
It's not something many of us typically worry about (too much), or we learn how to suppress our apprehension by weighing it against the rewards of a thrilling new experience.
A stop at White Island was just another in a series of adventures for me, with no concern that this was a dangerous activity, despite it being an active volcano. I'm sure the people who arrived on the day of the fateful eruption also were focused on their visit, excited to see the small island, learn about the history of the volcano, snap pictures and create new memories. Sadly, that visit ended horribly.
I heard that a guide who we had met on our trip was among those who died. My heart aches for his family and all the families who have been affected by this.
Stories are coming out discussing whether volcano tourism is safe. This is always the reaction to such events. As travelers, we have to research and understand the risks of any activities that we choose.
The only way to remove all risk is to shut down and do nothing.
Tour companies and guides must always be transparent with information about an attraction and vigilant in making them as safe as possible. Then, we can make an informed decision about whether it's still something we want to undertake.
The tragedy on White Island reinforces the fact that life is precious and to be enjoyed. We should live it to the fullest while we have the chance.
I'll choose to go forward with the memory of these lost adventurers in my heart. That is the best way I can honor them and make sense of this horrible misfortune.
Thanks for reading,
JR
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Multi-Sport Adventure Cruise in New Zealand is a Backroads' Gem

5/14/2019

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Kayaking in New Zealand
After a morning bike ride, we settled into kayaks and found this secluded wonderland during our port stop in Tauranga.
By John Roberts

New Zealand is an outdoors wonderland, and the people who live there embrace an active and healthy lifestyle.

With miles and miles of beautiful coastline along the oceans and into stunning fjords as well as hiking trails that snake across the entire country, there is so much to explore. The kiwis have known this long before the rest of the world became infatuated with New Zealand after seeing it in large scale through the lens of director Peter Jackson and his "Lord of the Rings" and "Hobbit" movie epics.

So, as I made plans to go to New Zealand for my very first visit, I wanted to make sure to do it right. For me, that meant it would be as part of a Backroads active cruise. Backroads has been a leader in active travel for more than 40 years, and I was happy to find out that the company's recent expansion into cruise travel added trips around New Zealand using Ponant's luxury expedition yacht Le Laperouse as a home base.

I have previously traveled with Backroads on the company's active Danube River cruises in partnership with AmaWaterways. These were thrilling hiking- and biking-focused trips that I thoroughly enjoyed. I knew that the concept of bringing adventure travel to the small-ship cruise experience was a winner.

7 Things About a Backroads Biking Trip with AmaWaterways


This time, I was going to get the Backroads take on a New Zealand adventure on the 184-passenger Le Laperouse. Our group of 24 Backroads travelers and three guides, Max, Katie and Brandon, had nine days to explore the diverse natural beauty of New Zealand. It was not nearly enough time, but we made the most of it.

Here is a photo report highlighting all that we did:

Auckland

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In Auckland, we went over to Waiheke Island for a hike before getting on the ship later in the day to start our cruise.
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Waiheke Island has a beautiful coast trail and is known for its dozens of vineyards.
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We had a delicious lunch at Cable Bay Vineyards after our hike.

Tauranga

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In Tauranga, it was a multi-sport day, starting with a challenging ride of about 20 miles.
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After lunch, we put the bikes away and got into kayaks to paddle around McLaren Lake. Backroads guide Brandon did all the work while I played with my cameras.
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All my new friends. I love meeting fellow travelers who enjoy the outdoors. This is what makes a Backroads trip special.

Napier

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In Napier, we biked along the coast and through farmlands, covering more than 22 miles.
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Along the way, we stopped capture some of the magical moments.
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We refueled with lunch and some fine wines at Black Barn Vineyards.

White Island

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We visited the active volcano on White Island, reachable via zodiacs from our ship, Le Laperouse.
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A short hike took us to the crater. The sulfur mists made it difficult to breathe at times.
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The landscape gave the surreal feel of being on a distant planet.
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The White Island is located off the east coast of New Zealand's North Island. Its continuous activity makes it an attractive site for scientists.

Wellington

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Wellington is the country's capital city, and we had a variety of options ashore. We started with a brisk hike in a nearby park.
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Then, many in our group stopped by the Museum of New Zealand, Te Papa.
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Later on, I ventured out into the city to try some of the craft breweries that are rising in popularity.

Picton

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In Picton, Brandon explained the day's hiking options and how the rest of the week's activities would play out.
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The Queen Charlotte Track offered the most scenic hiking of the journey.
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We covered more than nine miles and had brilliant views of the sound along the way.
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The 184-passenger Le Laperouse sits in the bay in Picton on a sunny day awaiting our return after another series of adventures.

Milford Sound

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Milford Sound is actually a fjord, and it sits within Fjordland National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
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We had a fun day in the fjord. After a rainy morning, the sun came out as we went kayaking.
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Max, Liz and Robert joined me on the zodiac ride back to our ship. This was the last big day of activity off the ship.
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While ashore, we were able to see several kea. These alpine parrots are know for being pesky little troublemakers. This juvenile kea was pecking away at the roof of a vehicle.

Luxury and Adventure

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Backroads support team Ryan and Laura handled our bikes and offered a few laughs during our trip.
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You're always well fed on these trips. The "Snackroads" treats are a welcome sight on a break during long bike rides.
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Le Laperouse features a heated infinity pool at the back of the ship.
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Another gorgeous New Zealand sunset.
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Aside from all the outdoors adventure, we reveled in the luxury experience onboard Ponant's cruise ship. Dinners were gourmet meals featuring French cuisine and free-flowing wines. (I chose the craft brews.) We also shared time on the dance floor, playing games and learning about the Maori culture through enrichment talks and performances organized or led by Katie, Brandon and Max. This included a song and dance performance, a group viewing of the movie "Hunt for the Wilderpeople," and a honey tasting.

15 Things to Know Before You Travel to New Zealand

Le Laperouse is a luxury ship, so of course it has a fine spa where you can get massage treatments and a relaxing sauna. Ponant is a French cruise line, and its sailings are inclusive, with all drinks and dining as part of your cruise fare. The ship also has an innovative Blue Eye underwater lounge, a cool place to relax and look out of the large portholes to see the world below the surface. Whale sounds also are piped in through special speakers. You can enjoy a drink down there or just close your eyes for a multi-sensory experience.

Our time in New Zealand left me energized and excited to return. Most of the people in my group had traveled with Backroads before, some on numerous trips, from 10 to 20 times. If you are interested in traveling with Backroads, you can find all kinds of active travel options on the company's website.
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The Blue Eye underwater lounge offers a multi-sensory experience and two large portholes to spy the underwater environment.
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A Maori group came onboard and gave us song and dance performances and explained their importance in telling stories and preserving the culture of the indigenous people of New Zealand.
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Crew on Le Laperouse made us feel welcome, ready with my favorite beverages each day after we came back from our activities.
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I was happy to see the ship stocked up on a range of regional craft beers.
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As one of our enrichment activities, the Backroads guides provided an in-depth talk and tasting of New Zealand honey.
Backroads and Bike Month
In recognition of May as National Bike Month, Backroads, celebrates its deep roots in biking with a collection of new biking trips. These include trips in Japan, Poland, Norway and Sweden, along the Kentucky Bourbon Trail and several Active Ocean & River Cruises.

Backroads trips include the use of custom-designed titanium performance road bikes that offer a high-tech yet comfortable journey through the countryside. Backroads also offers touring Bikes and electric-assist bikes. With tours for avid cyclists, newcomers, leisure riders and everyone in between, Backroads combines meticulously researched routes with expert and friendly trip leaders to make your travel experience memorable.


"I founded Backroads on the belief that the best way to see the world is by adventuring actively," Backroads founder and president Tom Hale said. "We're proud to offer best-in-class bikes and options for every type of rider
."

Founded in 1979 as a bike-tour travel company, the first Backroads trips included tours to California Wine Country, the California Coast, Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks, the Canadian Rockies and San Juan Islands. Backroads now offers more than 130 biking itineraries throughout the United States and across almost 60 countries and five continents. Backroads has scheduled more than 1,600 dedicated bike tour departures in 2019. Biking is also a featured activity on more than 1,000 Backroads multi-adventure trips.

New Backroads Bike Trips in 2019

Columbia River Gorge & Willamette Valley -- Oregon's Waterfalls & Wine Country
Japan -- The Noto Peninsula to Kyoto
Kentucky -- The Legendary Bourbon Trail, Louisville to Lexington
Norway & Sweden -- Seaside Scandinavia, Waterways & Spas South of Oslo
Poland -- Rich Heritage & Inspiring Nature from Krakow to Warsaw

Backroads Most Popular Bike Tours for 2019

Croatia -- Dalmatian Coast Adventures on the Adriatic
Danube River Cruise -- The Blue Danube, Prague to Budapest
Netherlands & Belgium -- Windmills & Canals from Amsterdam to Bruges
Portugal -- From Lisbon to Vineyards, Castles & Beaches

Thanks for reading,
JR

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See you again soon, New Zealand!
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15 Things You Need to Know Before You Visit New Zealand

4/5/2019

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Hiking in New Zealand
In Picton, our Backroads group took a fantastic hike on the Queen Charlotte Track, which at times overlooks a beautiful sound.
By John Roberts

If you have to spend 20-plus hours in airports and on planes to fly halfway across the planet to get to a place, the destination better be worth the grind.

New Zealand is a fine payoff, indeed, for that kind of hassle.

The land that the Maori call Aotearoa, which translates as "land of the long white cloud" is known for its natural beauty and amazing outdoors activities. I went there to take a multi-sport adventure cruise with Backroads, the active travel company that I previously traveled with on two adventures in Europe on Danube river cruises.

7 Things About a Biking Cruise with Backroads and AmaWaterways

An Epic Hiking Trip on the Danube with Backroads

This time, we sailed from Auckland on the North Island all the way to Dunedin at the bottom of the South Island.

Along the way, I learned a few things about New Zealand that can help you have a good working knowledge and help you prepare for your first trip to this fascinating island nation.
A Maori dance and song performance
The Maori people are the original settlers of New Zealand. You can't truly learn about New Zealand without exploring the Maori culture.
The Maori
The indigenous people of New Zealand are the Maori. These people are the world's original explorers and adventurers, having settled throughout Polynesia and the larger region by undertaking epic canoe trips to reach the far-flung and remote island. More than 600,000 people identify as Maori in New Zealand, or about 15 percent of the residents. To truly immerse yourself in what New Zealand is all about, make sure to seek out experiences that help you learn about the Maori culture, customs, language, music and dance.

Visa 
Entry to the country is easy for travelers with a U.S. passport. No visa is required from U.S. travelers to New Zealand. You fill out a form upon arrival that allows a stay for up to three months, and your passport must have an expiration date that extends at least three months beyond your trip. 
Cable Bay vineyard on Waiheke Island in New Zealand
We took a hike to Cable Bay vineyard on Waiheke Island to enjoy a sampling of wines and a nice lunch.
Wines
New Zealand wines have been earning acclaim for decades now. The country features a range of blends and varietals but is well known for its Sauvignon Blanc. Top regions to sample the flavors and enjoy wine tours in New Zealand: Hawke's Bay, Marlborough, Canterbury and Waiheke Island (off the coast from Auckland).

Population

New Zealand is a relatively small country, located about 1,200 miles east of its massive neighbor Australia across the Tasman Sea. New Zealand is home to about 5 million people, with about 3.7 million living on the North Island.
Kayaking in Milford Sound
Milford Sound on the South Island is a great place to explore via a kayaking outing.
Two Islands
The country features two main islands, North Island and South Island. They are separated by a narrow waterway, Cook Strait. The North Island has the largest population centers of Auckland in the north and Wellington, the capital city, in the south. The South Island is more wild, desolate and great for exploring nature. The South Island is 33 percent larger than the North Island and is the 12th largest island in the world.

Great Walks
Hikers can take on the 10 Great Walks of New Zealand. These are famous multi-day trails that are meticulously maintained by the country's Department of Conservation. The challenging routes range from 20 miles to 51 miles and typically take two to six days to finish. Try one or more of these Great Walks to see waterfalls, beaches, rainforests and all the wonderful natural features New Zealand can offer.
Also, you'll want to be fully prepared for adventure no matter when and where you visit. Check out this comprehensive ultimate packing checklist for your travels to New Zealand.
Kea, alpine parrot in Milford Sound, New Zealand
The kea is the world's only Alpine parrot. I saw this beauty and a few others in Milford Sound.
Wildlife
New Zealand has surprisingly few mammals and "nothing that can kill you," the natives like to say. Instead, the country offers an interesting variety of docile animals. In fact, the country's only native mammals are bats and marine animals. In the fjords, you can easily spot dolphins and seals. New Zealand is the seabird capital of the world. The country is home to about 80 seabirds, and more than one-third of those are only found in New Zealand. Look for albatrosses, New Zealand fairy terns, gannets, penguins and a variety of ducks. Onshore, you can try to spot fantails, keas and flightless birds like the wekas and iconic kiwis. (Note: kiwis are nocturnal and difficult to spot.)

Lord of the Rings
New Zealand is filled with multiple filming locations for the epic trilogy "Lord of the Rings" movies, as well as "The Hobbit" trilogy, and these films have been credited with a surge of tourism in the past decade from people who want to see whether the nation can really offer such magical places as depicted in New Zealand native Peter Jackson's movies. Yes, these Middle Earth landscapes are real, and you can see them on one of the many LOTR tours offered throughout New Zealand.
Milford Sound in New Zealand
Milford Sound is located in Fjordland National Park in the southwestern part of the country. This region is filled with stunning valleys and waterfalls.
Fjordland National Park
Located on the southwest corner of the South Island, Fjordland National Park consists of a stunning network of cliffs, valleys and fjords. The mountains, lakes and rainforest environment receive vast amounts of rainfall each year, which creates rushing waterfalls. Within the region are several glaciers, as well. Because of the isolation and unique characteristics of the area, the park is home to plant and animal species not found anywhere else. This is an amazing region to explore on a hike or cruises in the fjords.

Merino Wool
New Zealand's merino (sheep) wool and possum-merino blend products rank among the most-coveted items for visitors to buy. Gloves, hats, socks, sweaters and other clothing are available, and these items are soft, washable and eco-friendly. They are durable and work especially well to regulate body temperature because of the nature of the fine fibers. Also, the New Zealand possum is a pest in the country that was introduced from Australia in the 1800s and pose a serious threat to the environment, native birds and agriculture. Possums are harvested humanely during regular culls, and the purchase of a possum product aids the restoration of the country's environment.
New Zealand honey varieties
New Zealand offers a wide range of delicious honeys. The country is one of the top consumers of honey per capita.
Food and Beverage
Of course, you want to know what to eat and drink (aside from the wine). New Zealand has a fine selection of craft beers, and you can find plenty of charming craft brew joints in the bigger cities, especially Wellington. Look for Garage Project or Panhead beers if you want a distinctive taste of New Zealand brewing. Seafood is a top choice when in New Zealand as are meals made with lamb, steak and pork.  Other treats include fresh kiwi fruit, honey and artisan ice cream and cheeses (the country is known for its fine dairy production).

Money
New Zealand dollars (NZD) exchange at about 65 percent of 70 percent of the U.S. dollar, as of this writing. Prices are such in the country that the exchange difference is essentially nullified when compared with U.S. prices for items like, beer, food or clothing.

Driving
You drive, walk and bike on the left side in New Zealand. Stay focused to stay safe when getting around -- whether by car or bike.
Little Beer Quarter is Wellington, New Zealand
I found this nice craft brewery among the many you can visit while in Wellington, New Zealand.
Bio Regulations
The country holds its biosecurity sacred, and you'll pay steep fines if you bring in unauthorized foods and other items (whether intentionally or not). It is best to familiarize yourself with the rules before entering the country, and make sure to declare any items at customs upon arrival if you have any doubt as to whether your items are allowed.

All Blacks
Sports fans likely have heard of the national rugby team from New Zealand. The All Blacks have been among the best squads worldwide for more than a century and are a great source of national pride for New Zealanders. They are the only team to have claimed three Rugby World Cup titles, as of 2019.

Thanks for reading,
JR
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