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Blissfully Lost in the Wilds of Panama/Costa Rica with UnCruise

3/15/2018

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Embera Quera villager in Panama operates his dugout wooden boat
UnCruise Adventures voyages in Panama include trips deep into the remote wilderness to interact with native people such as the Embera Quera (see sidebar story below).
By John Roberts 

Our small expedition cruise ship has just slipped into Gatun Locks, and chef Joe Pienody is grilling shrimp for the passengers gathered on the sun deck of Safari Voyager.

It's always hot and humid in Panama in August, but the sun is beginning to drop along with the temperature, and we have perfect conditions to enjoy dinner while observing the choreographed activities in the lock chambers. Our vessel is being raised three levels to manmade Gatun Lake to continue its 48-mile journey from the Caribbean Sea across the isthmus to the Pacific Ocean.

Passengers munch their meals and sip beers and sangrias while wandering the 174-foot-long ship. Chatting excitedly, they watch ropes tossed and affixed to the mechanical "mules" that run on tracks flanking the locks. They'll keep the ship centered in the chamber. Safari Voyager is positioned behind a massive cargo ship as we move through.
Top deck barbecue on UnCruise Adventures' Safari Voyager
Chef Joe prepares our meal on the top deck as we enter our first lock while transiting the Panama Canal.
I've been eagerly anticipating this fascinating part of our Panama Canal cruise. The engineering marvel, which opened for traffic in 1914, took a huge human toll to build. Today, it is vital for how it facilitates world commerce and because of the number of jobs it provides in Panama. It's also a draw for tourists interested in learning about the engineering that makes it possible and the area's diverse wildlife.

Expedition guides mingle with passengers on Safari Voyager, answering questions as the last golden rays of the sun slip away. With UnCruise Adventures, the itinerary is always the main attraction, and we enjoy a full schedule that keeps us on the go in Panama and Costa Rica.

Before
 reaching the canal, we visit the village of the indigenous Embera Quera people and take a hike in the rainforest at UNESCO World Heritage site Fort San Lorenzo. 
Now sailing, we sleep while moving through Gatun Lake. The next morning, we immerse ourselves in the wilderness.

Our
 group includes mostly those aged 50 and older, but a pair of teens are onboard, too. The 36 passengers -- the ship can accommodate 62 -- and 30 crew members quickly bond. I'm traveling with my wife, Colleen, and our stateroom is small. It's comfortable but built for function -- a place to store our stuff and get a restful night's sleep after days filled with action.

We spend our 
time playing in the waters or hiking in the jungles. At the secluded Granito de Oro, our group is alone to snorkel around the tiny island. We take skiff rides ashore and are greeted by thousands of hermit crabs that continuously crawl the sands. (They also nibble at our toes when we plop into loungers for a snack or beer break.)

I tug 
on a snorkel mask and fins and slip beneath the surface, entering a colorful underwater world. Hawksbill and green turtles lazily eat seagrass 35 feet below. We swim amid schools of fish before finishing our exhilarating lap around the island. Some head over to give the standup paddleboards a try. Others keep snorkeling. I make a beeline to the stocked cooler, bringing back an armful of beers and passing them around. A group of us enjoy the beverages while soaking just off shore. Everyone's convinced this is paradise.

Liddy and Gregg Hora
 wanted to cruise in Panama to see the canal as well as enjoy the outdoor activities. Liddy says seeing turtles, fish and coral reefs is a thrill for the Fort Dodge, Iowa, couple because it's an experience they don't get at home.

S
ightings of dolphins and breeching humpback whales are a daily occurrence while we sail in bays and inlets. Crew and passengers keep eyes trained on the waters and call out when creatures are spotted. The expedition guides are native Costa Ricans and have been to each of our stops many times, but their enthusiasm for nature and conservation is genuine. They expertly lead us ashore and point out the sloths, howler monkeys and other creatures and plants that call the rainforest home.

On
 Safari Voyager, your cruise fare includes one 30-minute massage for each passenger, as well as drinks and a fantastic menu that features a creative mix of familiar cuisine and regional specialties like ropa vieja and fresh fish. The crowd gathers each afternoon for a drink of the day and fresh-made cookies.

Colleen and I 
rise the final day onboard to see storm clouds overhead. We ditch the daily morning yoga session on the sun deck, grab breakfast and get ready for our last hike. The heavy rains make trails muddy in the Osa Conservation Area, and streams of water rush past as expedition guide Erika leads our group. Animals hide from the storm, and the only sound is the slosh of our shoes and steady rhythm of the rain hitting the lush forest canopy.

"I never thought I'd have so much fun hiking in a rain
storm," Colleen says.

T
he rains pass, and we make our way along the final stretch toward a rushing waterfall to snap a group photo. A tribe of capuchin monkeys scrambles overhead, and we all pause to check them out. We never know what the days will bring during this adventure; we just know that we're not likely to be disappointed.
Monkey in Panama
Sea turtle in Costa Rica

Visiting the Embera Quera village in Panama

Life Off the Grid with the Embera Quera People of Panama

We load into dugout boats and head into the wilds.

Modernity quickly fades as we venture up narrow Gatun River -- with a quick stop to watch a spider monkey put on a thrilling show swinging from tree branches that hang just feet from our boat (our first monkey of the trip!).

UnCruise Adventures is bringing is to the Embera Quera village, and the indigenous people of Panama warmly welcome us ashore. Women, men and children wear colorful beads, flowers and skirts. Their faces and bodies display lovely tribal tattoos. The Embera people sell crafts and host visitors to support their community of about 50. They consider themselves a large family, and they treat visitors as the same. We are all overjoyed to learn about their simple lifestyle.

Children scamper about with dogs on neatly swept dirt floors. A feisty toucan roams the main building, where we take seats to hear a young lady talk about the community. Afterward, we are asked to join in singing and dancing with our hosts and are offered a snack of fish served on a large banana leaf. We shop for hand-crafted items, and I pick a carving of two sloths. Too quickly, it's time to go, and I envy the serenity these people seem to have found off the grid.

-- 
John Roberts

Safari Voyager cruise ship UnCruise Adventures
The Details
Ship: UnCruise Adventures Safari Voyager (62 passengers max capacity) 
Itinerary: Unveiled Wonders: Costa Rica and Panama Canal, 8 nights 
Journey: Panama City, Panama to San Jose, Costa Rica (or reverse) 
Price: From $4,395 per person (based on double occupancy)


A Look Back and What's Ahead for Panama and Costa Rica

Picture
We checked in with UnCruise Adventures' CEO Dan Blanchard to ask what he has heard from passengers who booked the line's expedition experiences in Costa Rica and Panama during UnCruise's first full season sailing in this exotic and raw part of the world. UnCruise is now underway with its second season exploring Panama and Costa Rica on Safari Voyager. 

What was the feedback from guests on how they enjoyed your "Pure Panama" and "Unveiled Wonders" cruises after your first full season? The response from guests who've taken the trip has been great.  As expected, the Panama Canal gets a lot of play prior to the trip but is rarely mentioned as the highlight after the trip. Most people find that Panama is so wild and free outside of the canal zone that they are often a little surprised. The two native groups we work with in Panama create a lot of positive vibes with the guests. The Darien and Guna Yala/San Blas areas are big memory-makers and are top items for our guests along with amazement at the early Spanish and pirate history nearby or underfoot.

Did it go as you had expected? The route and experiences have been over the top and second only to Alaska in my mind, but so different they are hard to compare. Pure Panama was an instant hit from a guest satisfaction level and has far exceeded our expectations . . . that goes for the crew too. The main takeaway is culture and clear warm water.  So yes, it did go as expected. However, we are realizing two things: One, guests want more time in the area, and two, they prefer Costa Rica and Panama together on a longer trip. We are working on developing 10- and 12-night Costa Rica and Panama combination trips.

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Six Reasons a Small Ship is Best Way to Cruise the Panama Canal

8/31/2017

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Panama Canal on UnCruise Adventures' Safari Voyager
UnCruise Adventures' Safari Voyager enters Gatun Locks as we prepare to transit the Panama Canal.
By John Roberts 

The Panama Canal is a technological wonder that is vital to modern commerce and shipping. The route that cuts through the isthmus of Panama has been open for more than 100 years, and its history is fascinating. People with an interest in history, engineering and travel in general all have good reason to seek out cruises that transit the Panama Canal. 

I have done this on a large cruise ship and a small expedition ship. My verdict is that it's an overwhelmingly more pleasing experience to cross the Panama Canal on a small ship. My cruise on Celebrity Infinity (2,100 passengers, 950 feet long) was enjoyable enough, with a lot of entertainment options and an overall nice program for the canal. The large ship offered a good perspective from its high decks as we transited the locks and Gatun Lake, and we also enjoyed time viewing from our balcony. 

But the limitations of cruising the Panama Canal on a large ship become apparent after my recent crossing with UnCruise Adventures on Safari Voyager. During this voyage, I discovered six reasons you should cruise the Panama Canal on an expedition ship. 
Panama Canal on UnCruise Adventures' Safari Voyager
No Crowds -- Safari Voyager sails with a maximum of 62 passengers on its itineraries in Panama and Costa Rica. We had even fewer on our trip, and the lack of crowds allowed us to get a viewing spot anywhere we wanted without having to arrive to the top deck hours ahead of the transit to stake out a spot on the railing. This is how it's done on the large cruise ships that transit the canal, and you can't leave your spot without losing it to other passengers ready to pounce.  

On an expedition ship, this is no problem. There are plenty of good spots for pictures for everyone, and people can move more easily from area to area, unhindered by crowds.  
Panama Canal on UnCruise Adventures' Safari Voyager
All the Views -- The small passenger count and the modest size of the vessel also means that you can go from one end of the ship to the other -- and even change decks or wander to other viewing platforms -- in a matter of moments so that you can enjoy views from the bow of the ship as well as perspectives off the sides and at the aft. This means you can see how the canal locks open in front then close from behind and watch the "mules" (powerful vehicles on tracks on each side) tie up ropes to your ship and work to keep you on course within the lock system. 
 
On large ships, you pretty much have to choose your perspective for the whole process. If you want to go from aft to bow, for example, it can take a long time to walk from end to end to reach a new position. 
Panama Canal on UnCruise Adventures' Safari Voyager
Dinner in a Lock -- On Safari Voyager, the ship's chef and crew put on a top deck barbecue for us so that we wouldn't miss a thing while we were transiting the canal. Passengers ate grilled shrimp and other fine cuisine while drinking sangria and cocktails served right outside under sunny skies. It was amazing to be eating our dinner right inside a Panama Canal lock during the whole process. 
Panama Canal on UnCruise Adventures' Safari Voyager
Ask the Captain -- The bridge is off limits during the crossing as a pilot from the Canal Authority comes onboard the ship to oversee the transit. But the ship's captain will generally be accessible to passengers right up to the time we enter the canal and will gladly explain what is going to happen. Our fellow cruisers on Safari Voyager peppered Captain Kamin Lambertson with questions throughout the day of the crossing to find out how many times he had done this, how long it would take, how much it costs, etc. 

Expedition ships generally have an open-bridge policy, and the captains will welcome you in to see how they navigate. They love to chat with passengers and answer questions, and many have a big bowl of candies to offer as an incentive to come visit. They get lonely up there and love the company. 

Time Lapse -- I was able to affix my GoPro camera to a rail just in front of the bridge to document the crossing as a time-lapse (see video at bottom of this post). This is a fun way to save a memory from your Panama Canal crossing, and it's easy to find an unobstructed area on a small cruise ship to place your camera with good views of the journey. This is not as easy to pull off in any good way on a large ship. 
Panama Canal on UnCruise Adventures' Safari Voyager
Naturalist Talk -- Expedition guides give a talk about the Panama Canal, its history and the process of the crossing. They provide a play-by-play that can be heard over a loudspeaker and will also walk the decks to answer any questions. The format may be fairly informal and flexible with such a small group, and the intimate setting seems more like a classroom with all your fellow passengers. This differs from the large cruise ships, which feature an expert giving commentary over a loudspeaker that is sometimes hard to hear and will not vary from its formalized presentation. 

A Panama Canal cruise is something to try at least once. You'll have fun on any type of ship, but for me, I really love that expedition ship experience. Have you done a transit? What type of ship were you on and what did you like about it?  

Let us know in the comments below. 

Happy travels! 
JR
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We're Off to Sail the Panama Canal with UnCruise Adventures

8/15/2017

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Kayaking in Costa Rica
Courtesy of UnCruise Adventures
By John Roberts 

Nothing is better than an expedition cruise. Of all my adventures, I would choose this style of travel over and over. You get to explore in smaller groups of like-minded travelers who are seeking fun challenges and go into regions of still-pristine wilderness that are typically unreachable by any other means. 

UnCruise Adventures specializes in expeditions and does it as well as any other company -- and much better than most. 

Last year, a went on back-to-back sailing with UnCruise Adventures to the Pacific Northwest and Alaska. Those voyages were action-filled and left me wanting to get back on an UnCruise Adventures ship as soon as possible. Well, that time has come, and we'll be sailing through the Panama Canal from Panama City to San Jose, Costa Rica, on Safari Voyager.  

Here's the day-by-day sailing itinerary for our destinations and all the activities.  

On embarkation day, we will have an evening transit of the 48-mile-long Panama Canal.  
Sailing the Gulf of Panama, on a search for marine life and seabirds as we cruise among islands and islets. 

At Granito de Oro and Coiba National Park in Panama, we can choose to snorkel, kayak and explore trails on the uninhabited island. We'll be on the lookout for howler monkeys, eagles and turtles. 

At Coiba National Park, for a morning of swimming, snorkeling or hiking options before afternoon sailing. 

Golfo Dulce is a paradise for bird fanatics. Now, in Costa Rica, we'll visit the tropical reserve -- filled with monkeys, hummingbirds, butterflies and exotic plants -- on a walking tour and also have the chance to explore mangroves by skiff and kayak. 

Osa Conservation Area is the location of Costa Rica's largest national park. Corcovado is blooming with biodiversity of plants and animals. Fully 2.5 percent of the world's plant and animal species can be found at Corcovado. We'll try to spy as many as we can on a trail hike. 

At Curu National Wildlife Refuge, a number of exotic creatures could appear. The gnarly mangroves are home to birds, colorful frogs, army ants and crocodiles. Activities include crossing a swinging bridge on a trail hike to spot monkeys. We'll also jump into the waters at Isla Tortuga to kayak, snorkel and paddleboard.  

Colleen and I will be with about 60 other passengers on the ship, which features modest staterooms amenities, a sun deck, EZ dock for launching into the waters for skiff tours and kayaking, open-seating dining room and a lounge area with a bar. The ship features an outdoor viewing area at the bow, which will be a popular gathering place for viewing wildlife, and UnCruise offers each traveler a complimentary 30-minute massage (I'll gladly pay for a second or third massage, too, after all the activity I am anticipating). I'll return with a full review of the ship and adventure experience. 

Thanks for reading and please follow out UnCruise Adventures trip on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook via the #TBIN hashtag (Travel Bloggers Influencer Network). 

Cheers!
JR
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