Category: Un-Cruise Adventures

Un-Cruise Adventures in Alaska Gives Rise to an "Extreme Team"

7/25/2016

Sometimes you get everything you want . . . and much, much more.

Setting out to explore the beauty and wilderness of Alaska on a weeklong cruise with Un-Cruise Adventures, I knew I was in for a fair number of physical activities. I mean, that's what the company is well-known for, and I had done a bit of research on Un-Cruise before ever getting on one of the ships.

When the journey started, however, the trip was more action-packed than I could have dreamed. From Day 1 to the finish, a group of us pushed ourselves to our limits in order to not miss out on a single exhilarating option that Un-Cruise offered. This caused some bumps, bruises, scrapes and tired bodies. But it also led to the most satisfying feelings of exhaustion and some of the best memories you can imagine.

Read my story in World of Cruising magazine to learn all about how the Extreme Team, a small group of passengers and expedition leaders, conquered southeastern Alaska.

JR

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An Un-Cruise Alaska Voyage Has to Be Experienced to Be Believed

6/8/2016

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Un-Cruise Adventures Wilderness Explorer in Alaska Tracy Arm Fjord

On our first morning sailing with Un-Cruise Adventures in Alaska, we spotted a full rainbow in Tracy Arm Fjord.

By John Roberts
For a guy who has done a lot of fun and outdoorsy stuff in his day, I was blown away by the activities offered by Un-Cruise Adventures during my cruise in southeastern Alaska.

This is the Big Leagues for active cruise excursions and fit travel options. Much of the fun we had on Wilderness Explorer during my voyage is owed to the fact that Alaska is a wilderness playground unlike any other. I also was very fortunate to have fantastic weather -- unseasonably dry and sunny -- when I cruised in early May.

The Un-Cruise experience places you on a purpose-built boat designed to get in close to remote areas of the Last Frontier so you can observe wildlife and get off the boat to play and explore in some of the most pristine places on earth. I cruised with about three dozen other passengers who also enjoy active pursuits, and the intimacy of the small boat and serene surroundings creates a quick bonding experience for travelers.

Un-Cruise uses expedition leaders on its ships, and they design the activities for the week. This is a flexible program that they refer to as "the plan from which to deviate" depending on weather conditions or other factors.

Welcome to Alaska!
I learned that almost all of my fellow passengers were experiencing Alaska for the first time on this cruise. And what a first day we had. After embarking from Juneau and settling in for the night in our cabins, we woke the next morning to see that we had arrived in Tracy Arm Fjord and the incredible sights of floating ice slipping past the ship as we worked our way deeper into the channel. Some of the chunks had seals and arctic terns perched on them. Looking up at the steep rock walls, we approached a cascading series of waterfalls. Closer, closer and closer the Capt. Clark Smithson brought the boat, until we could almost reach out and touch the falls from the viewing area on the bow of the Wilderness Explorer.

Then, just as we are pulling away from that scene, a mist begins to falls, bringing a full rainbow across the fjord. Cameras have been clicking now for more than an hour straight, and audible gasps and exclamations of wonder are heard "Can this get any better? Incredible!"
And we're just getting started. Later, we changed course to go to Endicott Arm and Dawes Glacier because thick ice blocks our progress toward Sawyer Glacier in Tracy Arm. On the diverted route to Endicott, we spy a brown bear grazing at the water's edge, more bald eagles soaring overhead and gray whales swimming nearby. Eventually, the glacier is in sight, and we board skiffs to head a little closer. That's when the real show starts. The massive ice wall is still a quarter-mile away but we see clear icy chunks floating by our small boat, getting larger and larger. Also, we keep an eye on a dense blue spot surrounding a cave-like void in the glacier. Sure enough, it starts to give.

The glacier sloughs off massive pieces of ice, and the giant segment shaped like a torpedo plunges into the water before launching back to the surface (a shooter). We have just seen an iceberg being born. Dawes Glacier becomes extremely active for the next 90 minutes -- with thunderous booms sounding that another chunk has landed in the fjord. This calving is an amazing thing to witness, especially up close. It continues even as we return to the Wilderness Explorer, which is now rocking from the wave action cause by the dropping ice chunks. No doubt about it: Nature put on a great show for Day 1 of our cruise in Alaska.

Cascade Falls hike in Tongass Forest in Southeastern Alaska with Un-Cruise Adventures.

I encountered some of the most challenging hiking conditions on the Cascade Falls hike in Tongass National Forest.

Hiking to Cascade Falls in Tongass National Forest in Alaska

Into the Wild
Dai Mar, our lead expedition guide, reveals the activity options for the following day's destination during a "Six O'Clock News" briefing in the ship's lounge, which also is home to the bar. These activities can range from easy to difficult. A shore walk, guided kayak tour or long hike or bushwacking tour. The more extreme or so-called "Hard Charger" activities appeal to me, and I get my fill during the week. Almost more than I bargained for. Again, I had come into this trip with the notion that a "difficult" excursion meant that it probably was hard for someone not accustomed to a regular level of physical activity.

I'll warn you now: If you choose an Un-Cruise Adventures voyage, understand that a hard activity will indeed be extremely challenging.

Our first challenge was an epic hike in the Tongass Forest past Cascade Falls and up to Falls Lake. This, in fact, is the most difficult one I have ever done, and I have lived in Colorado and hiked there extensively. While the roundtrip journey is only about 4.5 miles, it gains 1,400 feet of elevation by mostly scrambling up primitive mud-filled paths covered by muskegs, tree roots and teetering or completely useless rotted stair-ladders that had been cut into fallen logs. This hike is something that those of us who completed it will talk about for a long time.

Snorkeling near Stephens Passage and Robert and Crow Islands in Alaska

This sunflower sea star was one of dozens of interesting creatures we found in the chilly waters at low tide.

Have you ever heard of snorkeling in Alaska? Yes, three of us took the plunge and snorkeled on our next activity day. While most others went on skiff tours and shore walks, Matt Payne, a fellow travel writer from Oklahoma, and Ken Fielding, an avid cyclist from California, and I yanked on 7mm wetsuits and spent our morning in 42-degree waters near Robert and Crow Islands off Stephens Passage. Our group had become well acquainted after that first hike.

A skiff took us out to a kelp covered rock in the morning at low tide. Jumping into the waters was a shock at first, but the water that rushed into the wetsuits soon was warmed by our body heat and provided an insulated layer, allowing us to explore the creatures that live in such conditions for about 50 minutes before the icy waters started to win.

The waters were clear to about 15 feet deep, and they remained that way as long as we didn't kick too much. I didn't have to move a lot anyway, as marine life was on display everywhere as soon as I stuck my head under. Plumose anemones dominated the landscape, with their puffy white cotton tops. We also spotted a sculpin fish and dozens of crabs and sea cucumbers, as well as clams and sunflower sea stars (which can have as many as 20 arms). People thought we were a bit nuts to go in those near-freezing waters, but I loved how different this type of snorkeling is from what I typically experience the Caribbean.

Matt, Ken and I rushed to the hot tub once back on the ship. Two intense adventures in two days by the same trio. Dai Mar dubs us the Wilderness Explorer "extreme team."

New days, new destinations, new challenges.
It was hard to catch a breath as the busy days rolled by. I was sleeping very well, passing out soon after my weary body hit the mattress each night in my cabin. The fresh air, activity, tasty beers and delicious meals all aided my satisfying slumber.

Un-Cruise arranges a slate of daily activities for people to get out and explore each new destinations. The excursions or options are designed to meet the needs of all levels of interests and desires for physical activity. Maybe you want to sit back and relax a bit. Try a skiff tour around bays, coves, islands and fjords. Or venture out on an easy shore walk. Feeling more motivated? Paddle along shorelines and open waters during a guided kayak tour. Open kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding in bays (you are required to stay within sight of the boat) are available at times during the trip. These are all cool ways to see wildlife and the stunning geology of the region.

I catch a little break during a Mill Creek morning, when I choose a guided kayak tour. Then, the boat heads to the town of Wrangell for the afternoon, and I go ashore to see the village and take a hike up Mount Dewey. This is on a well-maintained wooden boardwalk, and it's a steep but short hike to a scenic lookout over the town and harbor. I find a new beer to try in the hotel at the pier, an Alaskan Brewing Co. Icy Bay IPA. I am pleased.

Hiking past streaming falls in Alaska on the Bailey Bay hike

These streams were one of several obstacles and beautiful sights we passed on our hike to the hot springs.

Waterfalls overlook on the Bailey Bay hike to Lake Shelokum in Alaska

This is just what I needed midway through another tough hike.

"Tomorrow, we'll have another Hard Charger option at Bailey Bay," Dai Mar announces at his briefing. Another expedition guide, Ellie, has given me a heads up not to miss this one. A hot springs is the payoff at the end of a long journey. I'm in, of course.

Again, it's just three passengers attacking this hike. Plus, five Wilderness Explorer staffers joining us, three guides and two crew members who are getting a little time off the boat to explore Alaska. I love that the company allows its worker -- most who seem to have a passion for fitness, adventure and nature -- to partake in these activities. You won't see that on major cruise ships.

The Bailey Bay hike takes along another tricky path, heading up and down mostly tracing the edge of gorgeous Lake Shelokum, at times leaving a narrow sliver of trail to negotiate. We climb over large boulders and downed tree trunks, tiptoe through tree roots and slop through mud. A rustling of the trees startles and freezes the group for an instant. A bear?

A large goose blasts off from its perch in a leafy tree.

From that moment on, Marika, one of our guides, seamlessly changes our hikers' warning call to "hey goose" from "hey bear" to alert any creatures on the trail ahead that we are approaching. I laugh.

When we reach a meadow and stream which opens up to a snow-capped mountain range with a waterfall flowing down in the distance, we have arrived at the hot springs and a picture-perfect portrait of Alaska. A hot tub constructed with rocks is ready to be filled through hoses laid alongside the flowing streams of steamy hot water that is coming down the mountainside. We eventually get the temperature just right and slide in for a soak after eating our lunches.
We could stay here forever, but eventually start to head back to the ship. We make another stop for pictures on top of a large rock jutting out over a massive waterfall (just as we had on the way up) and also pass through those same three smaller streams and falls, cooling our tired feet and rinsing off the mud one last time before arriving back to shore, where our skiffs await to return us to the ship where we can tell everyone about another you-had-to-see-it-to-believe-it Alaska adventure.

The cruise has one day left, and I get a final chance to push myself.

Kayaking Misty Fjord National Monument in Alaska

Getting our game faces on before more challenging paddling ahead during our kayaking journey through Misty Fjord.

Our last stop is Misty Fjords, a national monument, and we are offered the chance to get dropped off the boat from the EZ dock platform at the back. Wilderness Explorer then heads into the channel, and we'll kayak "about five miles" to meet back up with it. Well, that can't be too bad, I think to myself. They even offer a "casual paddle" option, and a group signs on for that. That means the pace we are expected to keep is the only difference between the two groups.

Well, soon after we slide off the back of the vessel, I realize this going to be another grind. Waves are tossing us around, the wind is in our face and we are paddling against the tide that is rushing out of the fjord that morning. Matt and I know we are about to suffer. Especially Matt, who immediately regrets following my advice that we wouldn't need spray skirts. He also got the bad seat in our rig, with me up front and him taking most of the direct hits from the wave action and blasts of spray off my paddle on nearly every stroke. His cockpit start to fill with water, and the first 30 minutes are a struggle to make any forward progress.

We see a skiff already approaching the other side of the channel to rescue the casual paddle group. Their excursion is now a small boat tour of the fjord. We soldier on and make it to a protected cove to regroup. Riding closer to the granite slabs that rise as much as 2,000 feet and define the fjord, we start to make progress.

The boat appears in the distance. (Several prior bends and turns had left us disappointed when we edged around a rock to only find more open water ahead.) Now, we aim our kayak toward a cove on the other side, making it there first to wait for the rest of our group. I eat a couple slices of bacon I grabbed off the breakfast buffet that morning, knowing I would be happy for the fuel.

Ellie tells us to aim our kayak at a distant point on land and let the current take us to the boat. We finish strong -- after 2.5 hours of almost constant paddling covering eight miles. You read that right. We went eight miles to reach the boat, which had to keep going to find a place it could safely anchor all the way at the end of Misty Fjord. Matt and I quickly grab a beer, make our way to the hot tub and commiserate about the incredibly challenging week of activities that we have just conquered.

Un-Cruise Adventures polar plunge in Alaska

Would you take the plunge? It's icy cold but also refreshing and one more bold way to cut loose in Alaska.

The Un-Cruise journeys conclude with one final chance to show your carefree wild side: the end-of-week Polar Plunge. I join a handful of passengers and even more crew members at the sports dock, and we take turns propelling ourselves into the icy waters. Dives, flips, cannonballs. We put on a good show, with some people plunging more than once (not me, thankyouverymuch!). It's a fitting and fun release to properly cap the most amazing week of thrills I have had yet in my travels.
---
As I write this, I notice several bug bites on my hands and arms, bruises, cuts and scrapes all over my feet and legs. My clothes are salt and mud stained as I send them through the laundry. These are the only souvenirs I brought back from my trip, and they will be washed away and fade over time. But what won't fade are my memories of this challenging and travel-affirming voyage of discovery. Or my desire to do it all again in Alaska as soon as possible.
Thanks for coming along.
Travel happy,
JR

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Thrills, Beauty in the Pacific Northwest with Un-Cruise Adventures

5/19/2016

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Un-Cruise Adventures Wilderness Explorer in San Juan Islands off coast of Washington

By John Roberts

On my last cruise, I showed up to my meals in the main dining room in my swim trunks. Not every time, but a few. And no one even noticed. Well, they probably noticed but didn't really care.

Not bad, Un-Cruise Adventures. Not bad at all. It seems like the only rules for the expedition cruise line relate to staying safe and having fun. The company offers a travel experience that packs one week with almost more outdoors fun than you can stand. The itineraries feature a whirlwind of activities that will leave you blissfully spent. Plus, there's a lot of great beer, too!

And, no judgments. (Swimsuits at dinner time, remember?) I cruised Un-Cruise Adventures' Wilderness Discoverer through the Pacific Northwest, visiting the San Juan and Olympic islands. I had a general knowledge of the region and these islands off the coast of Washington state, and I had always wanted to visit again to check out the hiking and maybe do some other outdoors activities.

Learn more about Un-Cruise in my interview with CEO Capt. Dan Blanchard

I'm so glad I went back there on an expedition-ship sailing with Un-Cruise, because it provided the most immersive way to get around the islands and small towns to fully appreciate just how much you can do There. While a highlight for me included sipping a cold pale ale in a bubbling hot tub in the company of new friends while watching orcas spouting off the starboard side of my ship, the Wilderness Discoverer, here are several other things to love about a voyage with Un-Cruise to the Pacific Northwest.

Hiking on Sucia in San Juan Islands Washington.

Hikes on my sailing ranged from 2 to 8 miles through lush emerald green forests.

Hiking -- Imagine disappearing into emerald green rainforests and following trails through old growth areas or alongside flowing rivers and up to scenic summits. We challenged ourselves with a 5-mile hike in Olympic National Park, a day exploring Robert Moran State Park with an 8-mile hike over Mount Constitution at Orcas Island and end-to-end hike through Sucia Island that tallied 6 miles, as well as a more leisurely kayak and 2-mile hike combo with constant views over the bay at Hope Island. Un-Cruise also offers hiking options in each location to accommodate those who might not want to pile up so many steps.

Snorkeling -- Yes, snorkeling. You won't see tropical fish, but you'll strap on a wet suit (it's tight folks, really tight) and plunge into 45-degree waters to poke around in depths of 10 to 15 feet. Weather must cooperate for this option to be offered. Spot sunflower sea stars with more than a dozen arms, crabs, flowing kelp and sea grasses, colorful anemones, eels, sea cucumbers and many other things that you'd only imagine in science fiction.

Kayaking -- Expert paddler, newbie or somewhere in between? Jump in a kayak with a partner and get set to explore. The guided kayak tours take you out from anchored spots in bays or sounds to explore surrounding islands or points of interest, such as coves and low-tide areas. I paddled four times during my week with Un-Cruise in the Pacific Northwest. The first tour started off pretty casually at Protection Island as we slipped easily through the perfectly calm waters toward the point, where we were greeted by about 25 curious and cute harbor seals that encircled us, swimming nearby and frequently poking their heads above water to make eye contact. (I swear they were posing for pictures.) In the shallow waters, we also saw dungeness crabs. This was an ideal way to relax and interact with nature.

Our guide Dani had us paddle out to the other side of Protection Island, where the long stretch into the waves and freshening winds offered more of a challenge. This paddle was going to provide a good workout after all. We saw stellar sea lions and several bald eagles as we became the first group to circumnavigate the island in about a year. Conditions are rarely good enough to go out past the protected cove our guide said. I was fortunate enough to have a week of unseasonably sunny and calm weather for early May in the San Juan Islands. A post-dinner kayaking session in the dark and a short kayak to a beach before we landed and set off on a hike also were top highlights during the week-long adventure.

Stand-up paddleboarding -- These extremely stable giant surfboard-looking toys can be intimidating at first, especially when one bad step means you'll be scrambling out of frigid waters. But you can quickly get the hang of paddling around the bays and coves where Un-Cruise boats anchor. The open-paddle sessions for SUP and kayaking are launched from the vessel's marine deck so you slide right into the water. I like to stand up for a bit until my knees get a little wobbly and then go ahead and relax and work on my kneel-down paddle boarding. How about lay-down paddleboarding? That's a thing, right? It sure is a restful way to float lazily around a beautiful lagoon.

If you're lucky enough, your skiff boat captain will sing you a sea shanty on your ride around the islands.

Skiff tours exploring tidal areas -- If you've done enough hiking, kayaking, swimming and paddleboarding, you can let the boat do the work. A small boat tour around shoreline is a fine way to learn about the region's geology and the creatures that appear along the intertidal areas during low tide -- like sea stars, chitons, mussels and barnacles. Plenty of birds (pigeon guillemots, eagles, terns) plus sea lions, seals and lighthouses often are spotted during these activities.

Piper at Propolis Brewing serves up beer to eager customers visiting from the cruise ship. Right, our third and final stop during our craft brew bar crawl in Port Townsend on a sunny day in the San Juan Islands.

Craft brewery tours -- Washington state is a world leader (the world leader, some say) in the craft-brewing movement. So it's fitting that you would want to try a few delicious beer creations offered on the islands at humble but charming shops, some set up in small prefab buildings but designed so that you can get a quick peek at the brewing process and chat with the owners about their recipes.

It's fantastic to sit back in small but inviting bar spaces and learn the stories behind the beers and how these entrepreneurs (some no more than 30 years old) just went for it and entered the competitive business of beer making. We stopped for tastings at Island Hoppin' Brewery on Orcas Island and at two breweries on Port Townsend -- Port Townsend Brewing Co. and Propolis Brewing.

Onboard enrichment talks -- When you go off on your activities during the day, you can gather back onboard after dinner in the lounges and discuss and learn more about what you have just seen. Talks focus on the animals in the region, history of the San Juan and Olympic Islands, geological formations, plants and trees and other topics that are raised during question-and-answer sessions. Nature nerds can totally geek out on these cruises.

Whale watching -- A top goal of almost every cruiser in the Pacific Northwest is to spot whales. We saw a couple humpbacks and an active pod of orcas, too. You'll also enjoy up-close encounters with harbor seals. We had about two dozen hang out with us during our kayak tour (noted above). Be on the lookout for porpoises (often playing in the bow wake early in the morning) and stellar sea lions (you'll know you're near when you are downwind of their distinctive smell).

Intense bonding experiences -- The boat's accommodations are modest, with small cabins and basic public areas. But this is your home for the weeklong sailing. Your room is just where you stash your clothes and plop down exhausted and satisfied after a full day of adventures. The line has an open bridge policy, so passengers can wander up to sit and talk with the captains anytime. The food is among the best I've had on any cruise. Fresh-baked breads and desserts stand out, as do the meals featuring regional specialties like salmon and scallops, for example. Also, the thick-cut peppered bacon is incredible. And the Un-Cruise staff are the stars of your trip, with expedition guides providing incredible and fun challenges for your daily activities.

They also lead the enrichment talks and will sit down to play games with you after dinner as the day winds down. Bar staff, boat operations and all other members of the crew are always smiling and asking what they can do for you, as well. Don't be surprised if several of them jump right in and join the end-of-week ritual "Polar Plunge" into the icy waters on your final full day onboard.

I still get chills thinking about my week in the Pacific Northwest with Un-Cruise Adventures, and it has nothing to do with those cold waters.

Hot tub whale watching on Un-Cruise Adventures Wilderness Discoverer

Go do this! Even if the whales evade you, you're in a hot tub ... with beer!

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Un-Cruise Adventures in Alaska Gives Rise to an "Extreme Team"

An Un-Cruise Alaska Voyage Has to Be Experienced to Be Believed

Thrills, Beauty in the Pacific Northwest with Un-Cruise Adventures

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