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Best View in Vienna: Climbing the South Tower at St. Stephen's

7/28/2016

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A view over Vienna old town from the South Tower of St. Stephen's Cathedral
You get a full look over Vienna when you make the climb up the South Tower of St. Stephen's Cathedral.
By John Roberts

Vienna is a delightful city, full of historic buildings, palaces and churches. It's a place of opera, ballet, tasty sweets, the Spanish Riding School (with its famed Lipizzaner stallions) and more.

The capital of Austria also is a place that I find can be easily explored during an early morning run on its well-marked biking/walking/running paths. I made my second visit to Vienna on a recent cruise on AmaWaterways' new river cruise ship AmaViola on the Danube River. On our stop in Vienna, which sits right alongside the river, I started my Sunday morning with a run through a quiet city. I have run in many cities and towns around the world, usually with a camera in tow to snap pics as I make my way past interesting spots, and in Vienna, my route brought me through neighborhoods in which my only company was residents walking their dogs.

The views along the Danube were as stunning as you would expect just after sunrise. (I was surprised to see so many rabbits inhabiting the greenery along the banks of the river.)

This jog was just the start to my day exploring Vienna, though. Once again, I was off to tour the city by foot. My previous river cruise to Vienna just about two years earlier left me fairly well-acquainted with the top sites to see, and one of the best is the sprawling and busy Stephansplatz, the main city square in which the city's iconic St. Stephen's Cathedral rises to almost 450 feet at its highest point (the South Tower). The Gothic church, which dates back 700 years, is a beloved landmark for the Viennese. Composer Joseph Haydn sang in the choir as a youngster, and Mozart was married there.
Spire rising above Vienna at St. Stephen's Cathedral
You can always find your way in Vienna by looking up to the spire on St. Stephen's Cathedral.
I stopped by to tour the impressive main interior, which is home to large stained glass windows and 18 altars. I briefly viewed the ongoing Sunday Mass before heading over to the South Tower. I had passed on a chance to climb the tower on my previous visit, but I would shell out the 4.50 euros this time in order to get a look at the best views over Vienna's Old Town.

To climb the 343 stairs of the South Tower of St. Stephen's Cathedral, you enter through a small door on the exterior of the structure, pay at a ticket window and head up the staircase.

This is no ordinary staircase, either. It starts out innocently enough before quickly narrowing. The whole process feels as if you are trying to climb up a straw.
Steps up south tower of St. Stephen's Cathedral in Vienna
Round and round you go up the 343 tightly wound steps.
The tightly wound stone steps twist upon themselves with the inside track of the staircase leaving such slim treads that only the tiniest of feet could remain safely on them. My size 12s had to work around the outside -- as did the feet most other climbers or descenders. (Yes, you have people coming down as you go up, meaning patience and courtesy is a must for everyone to be safe in the tube.) 

Tiny
 windows offered a glimpse over the city as we continued to rise, first reaching a small chamber, then a bell housing, before finally emerging to the payoff. The old watchman's lookout room (now, a gift shop, of course) sits some 245 feet above street level, which means it's just over halfway up the total height of the tower. Four windows provide incredibly scenic views over Vienna, one window for each direction. I pulled out my camera, snapped a pic through each one and soon after started my dizzying descent.
A view over Vienna old town from the South Tower of St. Stephen's Cathedral
The viewing room offers windows in each of four directions.
No stopping to buy anything at the gift shop. I was off in search of the famed Mozart Balls. (Yes, they are a thing. Delish chocolate treats, FYI.)

Till n
ext time, thanks for reading and always travel happy.

JR
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Off the Boat, On a Bike: The Best of Both Worlds On Your Cruise

2/9/2016

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Biking to Russian Bay on Poros in Greece
I had a wonderful day riding a bike around the island when I was in port on Poros in Greece.
By John Roberts

Biking is a perfect way to explore many destinations around the world. I love how we can use a long day of biking to explore a new place at our own pace, while seeing much more than we ever can on foot alone.

Plus, you get the added benefit of exercise!


In Malaga, Spain, we took part in a cool guided bike tour to check out that port city. But many other cruise ports in Europe and elsewhere offer opportunities for active travelers to pedal around on a day of sightseeing, whether you join a tour group or go it alone.


River cruise boats often have bicycles onboard that passengers can sign out for the day, but ocean cruise lines typically have policies prohibiting bringing your own bike along on your sailing. Windstar Cruises, an ocean line, rents bikes on its sailing yachts for $39 to $59. Check with your cruise line on whether you can bring your bike on the ship or whether your river boat offers bikes. Ocean sailings in the Mediterranean and river cruises on the Rhine and Danube offer the best way to explore a port area by bicycle because you usually can find well-maintained paths -- usually not too crowded, either -- within steps of your cruise ship. The river ships, especially, land ashore at biking and walking paths that follow the curves of the waterway.


Not to worry if you arrive at port with no bike. These destinations feature plenty of businesses that rent bikes or have "city bike" rental stations where you can just swipe a credit card, grab your wheels and go.


Amsterdam, Netherlands -- The city has more bikes than residents. Amsterdam is one of the most bike-friendly cities on the planet. You'll delight in wheeling around town checking out canals, historic architecture, restaurants, museums or even zipping into the countryside. I would recommend using a tour guide if it's your first time pedaling around Amsterdam because the maze of roadways and bike paths intersect amid the busy city center with crowds of tourists and traffic, which can all be very intimidating and confusing.


Vienna, Austria -- The city, which sits along the Danube River, contains a network of more than 740 miles of well-designed bike paths, making it easy to venture out on your own to explore the capital city's coffee houses, museums, Vienna State Opera House, cathedrals and more. Need a bike? Find one at any of the 120 Citybike Vienna rental stations (first hour is free, and prices are about $1 to $2 an hour depending on how long you keep the bike).


Bike and Boat Tours -- The best way to ensure you'll get to pedal in every port is to look for a cruise specifically geared to cyclists. Adventure companies like Backroads, for example, create itineraries for active cruisers. The company's upcoming Danube River Cruise Bike Tour on AmaWaterways' AmaViola will take bikers on rides in the Bavarian Forest in Germany, through the Austrian countryside, along the popular Donauradweg Danube bike path and around historic Budapest. Also, look for barge and bike cruises that arrive and ride in port towns in France, Belgium, Croatia, Spain, Italy, Turkey and the Czech Republic. Bikes are provided or you can bring your own.


Thanks for reading, and have fun on your adventures.


JR
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Five Best Things to Do in Vienna on a Short Visit

12/15/2014

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Schonbrunn Palace Christmas market.
If you visit Vienna's Schonbrunn Palace during advent, you can experience the quaint Christmas market on the grounds.
By John Roberts

Because cruise travel brings me to many of my destinations, I often have just a half day to explore a city before we head on our way to the next port of call on an itinerary.

So, I must make the best use of my time.

This was the case during my Viking Cruise down the Danube River.

In Vienna, we had an overnight call, so we enjoyed a little more time. Even so, spending fewer than 24 hours in such a magnificent and historic city is not nearly enough to do all that it offers. (That is why I like cruising as a way to get a sample to determine whether a place deserves a return for a full multi-day adventure.)

Here are five top things to do when you are making a quick stopover in Vienna, Austria.

5. Attend a concert. On our Viking Cruise, we chose a classical concert excursion on the evening of our arrival. It was a great treat to hear a sampling of the music of Mozart and Strauss in the world capital of music.

The concert was of moderate length and in a smaller venue, but you could find numerous options for concerts offered throughout the city.

Check websites like ViennaConcerts.com for a full schedule of classical events and operas.

Picture
The busy Stephanplatz, site of the towering St. Stephen's Cathedral, is filled with people, sites and shops of interest.
Picture
4. Take a walking tour. Get up close with a walking tour to explore as much as possible by foot. I think the best way to see any city for the first time is on foot. You get better photo ops than if you're whisked around by bus just getting superficial glimpses. Plus, a walking excursion, whether on your own or with a hired guide service, will net you three miles or more of exercise. In Vienna, your walking tour could take you to primarily the Old City center, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Check out the Holocaust Memorial and the pedestrian street and shopping mecca Graben. Both are within close proximity of the amazing St. Stephen's Cathedral, a Gothic marvel. The entire area is packed with churches, museums, quaint cafes and decadent sweet shops, all interconnected among enchanting stone streets and alleyways.


Picture
Grab a bike to pedal your way around the historic city.
Vienna Opera House / In The Loop Travel
Make sure to stop by the Vienna Opera House for a performance -- or a few pictures, at least.
3. Take a bike ride. A little more challenging than a walking outing, you can join a guided tour by bike to pedal your way around the city center a little farther afield on Vienna's well-marked paths around the city's famed Ringstrasse. Tours can last as long as three hours.

If you like going it alone, you can rent a bike or grab one from you river boat if it supplies them and set out on well-marked routes that lead right from the Danube canal all the way to the city center, with many things to see on the way (Vienna Opera House, Parliament and the city park with the giant Ferris wheel.

2. Get a taste of Vienna. Stop at a sidewalk stand for a traditional sausage, hot dog or a Kasekrainer, a smoked sausage consisting of 10 to 20 percent cheese. Scope out a bistro for schnitzel, dumplings and soup, or find a pastry shop to snap up some strudel.


Picture
Visitors may explore the vast gardens of Schonbrunn Palace.
1. Explore a palace. Vienna is home to Hofburg Palace, the principal residence of the Habsburgs, and Schonbrunn Palace, the summer home for members of the long-reigning Austro-Hungarian dynasty. The Habsburgs ruled from the Imperial Palace Hofburg for seven centuries until 1918. Today, the enormous complex displays nearly every form of architectural style and is home to the national library and the president of Austria's offices.

Schonbrunn Palace, an impressive Baroque structure, is filled with priceless decor, and tours allow visitors to go through up to 40 of the 1,441 rooms and into the vast, beautiful gardens.

Of note: U.S. President John Kennedy and Soviet Premier Nikita Kruschev met for a summit in 1961 at Schonbrunn Palace.

You see, there is much history and flavor to explore in Vienna. If you are only there for a short stay, pick something you'll enjoy, and dive right in. You can always go back for more.

Travel happy,
JR
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